ST. PETERSBURG. 77 



cire/' mingling itself in memory with the beautiful, like a 

 patch on a royal robe. 



After considerable experience, we advise the solitary 

 stroll through the town ; the discovery of sights for one's- 

 self; the enjoyment of freedom; the delight of calm, un- 

 disturbed observation ; the power to gaze into shop 

 windows without being waited for, or of sitting alone in 

 a cathedral, without an arm and finger of a guide com- 

 pelling your eyes to follow their directions. Only be 

 assured that everywhere human beings may be found who 

 will tell you all you wish to know, in every place where 

 you wish to wander, and where you seek to feel rather 

 than to know. 



The language, alas ! that in Kussia is a fearful demand. 

 French and German go far, but when Russ is required, 

 you must get Mr. Schaff to accompany you. But let this 

 be the last resource of desperation. Fortunately for us, 

 we had a perfect guide in one of our travelling companions 

 who knew Bussia and the Russians. 



Now, I will not trouble my readers by dragging them 

 after me through all the sights of St. Petersburg and 

 Moscow ; this would be almost as bad as driving through 

 their streets in a drosky. Let me just give an abridged 

 catalogue of the chief things which I saw. 



In St. Petersburg I visited the principal churches, 

 specially St. Isaac's, great in granite, magnificent in 

 malachite, and hoary in nothing save superstition ; with 

 the Kazan church draped with innumerable banners 

 taken in war never did an English flag form a part io 



