MOSCOW. 109 



On one side, the river Moskwa curled itself like a snake, 

 one of its bends being immediately under the Kremlin 

 walls. Farther away, a few miles to the right, rose a low 

 ridge of hills or steep wooded banks, called the Sparrow 

 Hills, whose base was washed by the river, from which 

 the whole city first burst upon the gaze of Napoleon and 

 his army ; and after visiting the scene, I can hardly 

 imagine a more imposing view of a vast city. 



In turning to the other side, to gaze on the city from 

 the summit of the tower, what can be finer ? It covers a 

 great area for its population (which is only about 500,000), 

 chiefly owing to the fact of most of the houses standing 

 apart, and having gardens attached to them. 



The characteristic feature unquestionably of the city is 

 its churches. How many there are of those I know not 

 (it is said 600), for I tried in vain to count them. But 

 as each has several copper-covered, gilded, or ornamental 

 domes (generally five), with high gilded crosses, and these 

 everywhere glittering in the sun, mingling with the green 

 of the trees and the white of their houses, all form a 

 most brilliant and singular panorama, spread over a great 

 area. Add to this the domes of great monasteries, such 

 as the Seminoff and Donskoi (sacred to the Don Cos- 

 sacks), which gleam to right and left beyond the city, on 

 the banks of the Moskwa, and the brilliant impression 

 which the gazer receives from the summit of Ivan Valiki 

 as deepened. 



It is a spectacle which one never tires of, and few 

 travellers grudge the toil of a second ascent, at least, in 



