ARRIVAL AT WERCHOIANSK. 335 



die and bridle on which looked very nice indeed, although 

 the saddle was much different from those in use at home. 



On the 24th we made but a short run, as our road lay 

 over mountains which were steep and rocky so much so 

 that we had to walk in many places, our drivers leading the 

 deer. Along this part of our journey I noticed, in different 

 places, small bow traps set for catching lemming. These 

 lemming are used for food, and the skins are also utilized. 



On the forenoon of Sunday, November 27th, after a tedi- 

 ous ride, we reached the town of Werchoiansk (or Verkhoy- 

 ansk) and were taken to a house where we were received by 

 an official in uniform and side arms. Our clothing was 

 kindly cared for, and we were furnished with tea and pastry, 

 and afterward with Russian cigarettes. We were then con- 

 ducted to a room where were several beds. These beds, 

 after our long absence, were to us indeed a novel sight. 



The house in which we were quartered was a very com- 

 fortable-looking one-story structure, plastered inside and out, 

 and warmed by a clay oven. There were five apartments on 

 one floor, and a small cellar. The windows were of verv 



*J 



poor patched glass, with small panes and heavy sashes. The 

 outer windows, for such there were, were slabs of ice, and 

 women came in each morning to scrape off the rime which 

 daily formed 011 the inside of them. The cooking was done 

 at a fire-place built up of clay and wood, over which was 

 plastered more clay, rendering it fire-proof. A similar kind 

 of fire-place, though not as well finished, had been common 

 for some time along the road as we approached the town. 



A supply of excellent tobacco, pipes, and cigarette-paper 

 was furnished to us, and I saw some cigars, but did not 

 smoke them. Here I met for the first time the famous Rus- 

 sian vodka, which is not unlike new rum. Here we also 

 enjoyed the luxury of sitting down to a table to eat, and of 

 using knives, forks, and spoons in a civilized manner ; and it 

 seemed very pleasant after our rough experiences. We suc- 

 ceeded, also, in getting some clothing for a portion of our 

 party. 



