UP THE YUKON 143 



and to these were affixed wickerwork traps like eel-pots 

 on a large scale, oblong holes being kept open over 

 them by frequently breaking the ice. This was cold 

 work, for the temperature ran low. " In November 

 and December," says Whymper, "I succeeded in 

 making sketches of the fort and neighbourhood when 

 the temperature was as low as thirty degrees below 

 zero. It was done, it need not be said, with difficulty, 

 and often by instalments. Between every five strokes 

 of the pencil, I ran about to exercise myself or went 

 into our quarters for warmth. The use of water- 

 colours was of course impracticable except when I 

 could keep a pot of warm water on a small fire by my 

 side a thing done by me on two or three occasions, 

 when engaged at a distance from the post. Even 

 inside the house the spaces near the windows, as well as 

 the floor, were often below freezing point. Once, for- 

 getful of the fact, I mixed some colours up with water 

 that had just stood near the oven, and wetting a small 

 brush commenced to apply it to my drawing block. 

 Before it reached the paper it was covered with a skin 

 of ice, and simply scratched the surface, and I had to 

 give up for the time being." 



On the 12th of May the Nulato River broke up and 

 ran out on the top of the Yukon ice for more than a 

 mile up-stream ; and in a few days the ice of the main 

 river was coming down in a steady flow at a rate of 

 five or six knots, surging into mountains as it met 

 with obstacles, and grinding and crashing and carrying 

 all before it, whole trees and banks being swept away 

 on its victorious march, the water rising fourteen feet 

 above the winter level. On the 26th Whymper and 



