^Travels in Alaska 



receive only ten dollars fare from each person, while 

 they had incurred considerable expense in fitting up 

 the boat for this special trip, and had treated us well. 

 No, under the circumstances, it would never do to re- 

 turn to Wrangell so meanly soon. 



It was decided, therefore, that the Cassiar Com- 

 pany should have the benefit of another day's hire, in 

 visiting the old deserted Stickeen village fourteen 

 miles to the south of Wrangell. 



"We shall have a good time," one of the most in- 

 fluential of the party said to me in a semi-apologetic 

 tone, as if dimly recognizing my disappointment in 

 not going on to Chilcat. "We shall probably find 

 stone axes and other curiosities. Chief Kadachan is 

 going to guide us, and the other Indians aboard will 

 dig for us, and there are interesting old buildings and 

 totem poles to be seen." 



It seemed strange, however, that so important a 

 mission to the most influential of the Alaskan tribes 

 should end in a deserted village. But divinity abounded 

 nevertheless ; the day was divine and there was plenty 

 of natural religion in the newborn landscapes that 

 were being baptized in sunshine, and sermons in the 

 glacial boulders on the beach where we landed. 



The site of the old village is on an outswelling strip 

 of ground about two hundred yards long and fifty 

 wide, sloping gently to the water with a strip of gravel 

 and tall grass in front, dark woods back of it, and 

 charming views over the water among the islands 

 a delightful place. The tide was low when we arrived, 

 and I noticed that the exposed boulders on the beach 



[70 J 



