"Travels in Alaska 



were in a hurry, but not to travel in the night like 

 thieves. 



After a few hours' sleep, we set off again, with the 

 wind still against us and the sea rough. We were 

 all tired after making only about twelve miles, and 

 camped in a rocky nook where we found a family of 

 Hoonas in their bark hut beside their canoe. They 

 presented us with potatoes and salmon and a big 

 bucketful of berries, salmon-roe, and grease of some 

 sort, probably fish-oil, which the crew consumed with 

 wonderful relish. 



A fine breeze was blowing next morning from the 

 south, which would take us to Chilcat in a few hours, 

 but unluckily the day was Sunday and the good wind 

 was refused. Sunday, it seemed to me, could be kept 

 as well by sitting in the canoe and letting the Lord's 

 wind waft us quietly on our way. The day was rainy 

 and the clouds hung low. The trees here are re- 

 markably well developed, tall and straight. I ob- 

 served three or four hemlocks which had been struck 

 by lightning, the first I noticed in Alaska. Some of 

 the species on windy outjutting rocks become very 

 picturesque, almost as much so as old oaks, the foliage 

 becoming dense and the branchlets tufted in heavy 

 plume-shaped horizontal masses. 



Monday was a fine clear day, but the wind was 

 dead ahead, making hard, dull work with paddles and 

 oars. We passed a long stretch of beautiful marble 

 cliffs enlivened with small merry waterfalls, and 

 toward noon came in sight of the front of the famous 

 Chilcat or Davidson Glacier, a broad white flood 



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