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Chapter XVIII 



hours. This time included a rest of an hour at the Capanna 

 Gnifetti. The gradient does not become steep until the last 1500 

 feet, which are up steps cut in the ice. The ascent up this final stair- 

 case, when made by a party roped together, is the most leisurely affair. 

 Apart from this staircase there is nothing that could even be called 

 climbing : a path along the summit of a ridge soon brings the party 



FIG. 131. The Punta Gnifetti on the summit of which may be seen the 

 Capanna Margherita. (Durig.) 



to a couple of glaciers. These are crossed diagonally with no par- 

 ticular effort, then bending round the corner of a rock and making 

 an ascent of a few metres the party found itself at the Capanna 

 Gnifetti, the point at which the route to Zermatt diverges from that 

 which leads to the summit. After this point it is all snow and ice. 

 Immediately in front of the party is the summit of Lyskamm, that 



