220 THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. 



pigments, preferably of the brighter colors, feathers of brilliant 

 hues, spotted or glossy skins and furs of animals, beads, shells, 

 shining or colored stones and bits of metal, together with various 

 oils, ointments, and perfumes, all designed to please the sense of 

 sight or of smell. To the same end various mutilations of the 

 body were endured, such as tattooing, or piercing the lips, nose, 

 cheeks, or ears for the insertion of rings or pieces of fancy stone 

 or metal. The neck, also, ankles, wrists, and fingers were used as 

 convenient places for the attachment of ornaments, such as rings 

 of gold or strings of shell or precious stones. The hair, too, was 

 left uncut and tied up in various fantastic ways, and decorated 

 with shells, beads, and gold and silver ornaments. Almost equally 

 early, however, dress was made to serve another purpose than 

 that of pleasing the senses of the beholder. It was used as a 

 means of gaining favor and power by serving as a symbol of the 

 wealth of the wearer. Hence those feathers, skins, and furs 

 which were most rare and difficult to obtain were preferred, and 

 those metals and stones which were not only brilliant but costly, 

 such as gold, silver, diamonds, and rubies. In the manner of 

 wearing this ornamental dress, neither protection nor conceal- 

 ment of the person was so much considered as display. The loose 

 and flowing garments often impeded the movements of the 

 wearer, so that in hours of work or warfare they must often be 

 left behind. In inclement weather, also, they were often laid 

 away, as it was considered more important to protect the dress 

 itself than the person. Starting with these primitive ideas, the 

 evolution of dress has shown a steady progress from display to 

 utility. Clothing tends to be substituted for dress and to have 

 for its end the protection and comfort of the body. Paint, feathers, 

 and pieces of stone and metal tend to disappear as useless. The 

 gaudy colors of the savage, the purple of chiefs and kings, the 

 white of the Romans, give place to the plainer and more useful 

 grays and blacks. Tattooing and other mutilations disappear, 

 skins and furs are replaced by the more comfortable woven cloths, 

 the flowing and dragging robes give way to the close-fitting gar- 

 ment which impedes the movements as little as possible, and the 

 hair is cut shorter for convenience and economy of time. To- 

 gether with these changes we notice that the symbolic character 

 of dress disappears, so that less and less is it possible to judge of 

 a person's wealth by his attire. It should be observed that none 

 of these ends toward which the evolution of dress is tending have 

 been fully realized even in the most civilized societies, but the 

 civilization of any people is largely judged by the extent to which 

 these ends have been realized. 



In the light of these principles the theory of woman's arrested 

 or retarded development receives, it is said, much confirmation. 



