SURMULLET. 215 



of ostentation as we must suppose, indulged himself with a 

 dish which was formed of only the barbs of this expensive fish. 



The head and liver were the parts which constituted the 

 particular objects of attraction to those who prided themselves 

 on their taste: and that the last-named part was such we can 

 easily understand, whether formed into sauce or as a portion 

 of the cooked fish, for in truth it is this which yields the 

 larger portion of its delicious flavour. But it is not so easy to 

 discern what it could be that recommended the head to the 

 epicure, except that so little of anything could be extracted 

 from it. The well-known Apicius, who spent a large fortune 

 in the indulgence of his appetite, believed that he had secured 

 an addition to his luxuries by drowning Mullets in a rich 

 sauce of great cost, known by the name of the Sauce of the 

 Allies, and supposed to be made of the entrails of Mackerel 

 infused in very strong vinegar. But it is easy to perceive 

 that fancy only, or the craving after notoriety, so powerful 

 in his day, must have been the chief inducement to this pro- 

 ceeding; for the fishes could not receive any portion of the 

 flavour into their flesh until they were dead. 



The practice of presenting the living fish to the guests at 

 table, swimming in glass vessels, which had its origin in the 

 wish to secure them in the best condition for the cook, became 

 afterwards a fashion; and there were those who found a 

 pleasure in pointing out the succession of changes through 

 which the captive passed as the powers of life declined. 

 The Surmullet is one of those fishes which after death never 

 recover the brilliant tints which adorn them during life, and 

 when at freedom in their native seas. 



It is curious to find that there were some who probably 

 acquired equal notoriety with others, and at the same time 

 saved their purse, by professing to despise the fish which 

 others so greatly coveted. Bccticus, as Martial speaks of him, 

 could not eat the Mullet, the hare, the boar, the pheasant, 

 nor other dainties; but he preferred the Gerres and other 

 fishes, which held the same value as with us the Sprat; and 

 Martial declares for himself that although he valued a Mullet 

 of two pounds weight as equal to a Turbot, yet both these 

 fishes lost their relish when alloyed by the prate of his 

 entertainer. 



