82 



HARDWICKE'S SCIENCE-GOSSIP. 



fully with long streamers attached. In the Red Sea 

 and Indian Ocean birds seem few and far between. 

 Near isolated rocks one beautiful species prevails. 

 It has a rich chestnut back and wings ; body elongated 

 in flight ; head brilliant white, breast white ; under- 

 pays of wings white with dark rim. If any reader 

 will identify this bird I shall esteem it a favour. By 

 the side of the Suez Canal thousands of flamingoes 

 stood in the marshy lake immovable, and so like 

 reeds that one could hardly credit the assertion that 

 they were birds ; the illusion was perfect — suddenly, 

 however, the spirit moved them to flight, and long 

 lines of awkward birds fled away. Two Egyptian 

 vultures rested on sandy hillocks. A pelican and a 

 crane were chained to a floating house on the canal. 

 Lots of wagtails flitted by the shore, three species, as 

 figured by Dresser, I clearly identified with the aid of 

 field-glasses, viz. M.alba, the white wagtail, M.flava, 

 the blue-headed wagtail, and the grey wagtail, which 

 is sulphur-yellow breasted (the specific name escapes 

 my memory, it is not Ray's species). An anthus was 

 associated with these, probably either Richards' or 

 rock-pipit. We passed the wonderful Suez Canal in 

 the short time of nineteen hours. 



Passing the coral reefs of the distant Lacadive 

 Islands the first glimpse of palms was visible standing 

 up apparently on nothing. Colombo was reached 

 after dark. Some passengers landed at once to pass 

 the night in the hotel. I remained on board ship, 

 but as coaling operations were in progress, and 

 consequently port-holes closed, the heat and noise 

 were great ; it was in fact very oppressive. Ashore 

 they suffered greatly from heat and mosquitoes. 



It was daylight at six o'clock, and the ship was 

 timed to leave at 2 p.m. Our passage from London 

 had been a record, viz. twenty days ; to Australia 

 not an instant will be wasted, therefore our time 

 allowance on shore is not over-liberal. These fol- 

 lowing observations on tropical Ceylon must of 

 necessity be fragmentary and incomplete. 



In the early morn the scene in the harbour was 

 animated. Scores of native boys crowded round us 

 in most primitive boats — simply bits of hollow trunk 

 fastened together and propelled by short sections of 

 bamboo. These lads shout and jabber in excited 

 style, clamouring for coins to be thrown into the 

 water, after which they dive with admirable skill 

 and graceful action. Their skin is a rich copper- 

 colour, the hair absolute black. I think they must 

 anoint a good deal with cocoanut-oil, so greatly do 

 their bodies and hair shine ; sharks are said to abound 

 in the waters, but there is no indication of fear. The 

 native catamarans are boats of singular construction 

 about eleven inches in width, but very long. On one 

 side two bamboos stretch over the surface of the 

 water, with a heavy log attached at the far ends. By 

 this contrivance the risk of capsizing is reduced to 

 nothing ; they carry sail and brave the open sea in 

 rough weather. Glancing from the shipping to the 



land, I was at once struck with the enormous numbers 

 of cocoanut-palms with straight, bare trunks and 

 gracefully bent terminal foliage and clusters of green, 

 or yellow fruit ; for there were two kinds, one known 

 as the traveller's-tree having yellow fruit, and which 

 contains the most refreshing fluid. The coast line 

 here is low and flat, the mountains of the interior 

 were hidden in the early mists. First thing on 

 landing I engaged a rogue of a guide named Peter to 

 show us rapidly about, and keep other rogues and 

 beggars away. The first question he asked me was 

 if the three ladies of the party were all my wives ? He 

 received the negative with some incredulity, I believe. 



As the heat was about 85 Fahr., I hired a 

 covered yet open carriage, at six rupees for the day, 

 to drive through the palm plantations and cinnamon 

 groves of the vicinity, to a finely situated hotel at 

 Mount Lavinia, for early breakfast. Here, by the 

 sea shore, we had most fragrant and perfect tea, 

 with good fried fish, a species of grey mullet caught 

 half an hour before among the rocks. Large prawns 

 also appeared abundant. Fresh-gathered green 

 oranges and delicately flavoured bananas were placed 

 on the table, and we enjoyed the novelty of our sur- 

 roundings. Little black fellows hovered round us 

 at every step out of doors. "Me hungry " (smacking 

 his stomach lustily); "Me no fader — he die yester- 

 day " (with broad grin) ; " Give money, master," 

 and such remarks greeted us. Telling one he 

 ought to be at school, he at once recited the 

 English alphabet with conscious pride. Some were 

 handsome, all were interesting, but got wearisome, 

 and pestered sadly. 



What can I say of the vegetation after such a 

 rapid glimpse ? It would be almost better to remain 

 silent ; yet I cannot resist writing these lines. The 

 spreading, ample foliage of the bananas and plantains, 

 most beautiful among green tints, flourished on all 

 sides, in forcible contrast to the lofty palms and the 

 rich chocolate soil. The variety of banana here most 

 esteemed has small, yellow-coated fruit, with some- 

 what of the pine flavour. It is most agreeable to the 

 taste, and melts away in the mouth. 



It is most nutritious among articles of food, and is 

 capable of supporting a greater population than 

 anything known in the world. The tree bearing the 

 bread-fruit (is this the same as jack-fruit ?), was 

 plentiful, the oval, rough-skinned fruit being attached 

 to the trunk in irregular manner. Mangoes were 

 here and there, but not in full perfection at this 

 season ; the smooth, green fruit I did see on one 

 tree. Opuntia, or prickly pear, grew as a weed, but 

 they looked small, and had no fruit. Long and 

 narrow cacti, with angular growth, stood some 

 fifteen feet high. The hibiscus was in all its glory. 

 The single-flowered scarlet species formed regular 

 hedges — a veritable blaze of colour. It is called, I 

 think, the "shoe-plant," because a sort of black fluid 

 is obtained, used either for blacking boots or for ink. 



