690 THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. 



In all preparations of Italian pastes, risottos, purees, etc., the cheese 

 is intimately mixed throughout, and softened and diffused thereby in 

 the manner above described. 



The Italians themselves imagine that only their own Parmesan 

 cheese is fit for this purpose, and have infected many Englishmen with 

 the same idea. Thus it happens that fancy prices are paid in this 

 country for that particular cheese, which is of the same class as the 

 cheese known in our midland counties as " skim dick," and sold there 

 at about f ourpence per pound, or given by the farmers to their laborers. 

 It is cheese " that has sent its butter to market," being made from 

 the skim-milk which remains in the dairy after the pigs have been 

 fully supplied. 



I have used this kind of cheese as a substitute for Parmesan, and 

 I find it quite satisfactory, though it has not exactly the same fine 

 flavor as the best qualities of Parmesan, but is equal to that commonly 

 used by the Italian millions. The only fault of our ordinary whole- 

 milk English and American cheeses is that they are too rich, and can 

 not be so finely grated on account of their more unctuous structure, 

 due to the cream they contain. 



I note that in the recipes of high-class cookery-books, where Par- 

 mesan is prescribed, cream is commonly added. Sensible English 

 cooks, who use Cheshire, Cheddar, or good American cheese, are 

 practically including the Parmesan and the cream in natural combina- 

 tion. By allowing these cheeses to dry, or by setting aside the outer 

 part of the cheese for the purpose, the difficulty of grating is over- 

 come. 



I have now to communicate another result of my cheese-cooking 

 researches, viz., a new dish cheese-porridge or, I may say, a new 

 class of dishes cheese-porridges. They are not intended for epicures, 

 not for swine who only live to eat, but for men and women who eat 

 in order to live and work. These combinations of cheese are more 

 especially fitted for those whose work is muscular, and who work in 

 the open air. Sedentary brain-workers like myself should use them 

 carefully, lest they suffer from over-nutrition, which is but a few de- 

 grees worse than partial starvation. 



Typical cheese-porridge is ordinary oatmeal-porridge made in the 

 usual manner, but to which grated cheese is added, either while in the 

 cookery-pot or after it is taken out, and yet as hot as possible. It 

 should be sprinkled gradually and well stirred in. 



Another kind of cheese-porridge or cheese-pudding is made by 

 adding cheese to baked potatoes the potatoes to be taken out of their 

 skins and well mashed while the grated cheese is sprinkled and inter- 

 mingled. A little milk may or may not be added, according to taste 

 and convenience. This is better suited for those whose occupations 

 are sedentary, potatoes being less nutritious and more easily digested 

 than oatmeal. They are chiefly composed of starch, which is a heat- 



