26 THE NAUTILUS. 



It was just turning dusk as we rounded Ensenada Point into 

 Todos Santos Bay, which is little better than an open roadstead, 

 except for the protection offered by the chain of Todos Santos 

 islands a dozen miles to sea, and the shelter of the Point from north- 

 west winds. Immediately on dropping anchor we were boarded by 

 the Comandante of the porl, Don Luis Fernandez, and the quaran- 

 tine officer, our old friend, Dr. Peterson, who courteously waived all 

 examination, allowing us to go ashore at will. The two nights spent 

 here with a nearly full moon shining down on us, just enough ground 

 swell to keep in mind that we were cruising, and the balmy breeze 

 of semi-tropical summer blowing over us, make a memory picture a& 

 near perfection as this world gives. 



The day was busy. First we had the usual difficulties with the 

 Mexican officials. In the absence of specific instructions, they were 

 unable to determine whether we should register our craft as a private 

 yacht or a passenger vessel. In either case they notified us that we 

 must bear the expense and delay of telegraphing to the City of 

 Mexico for instructions and license. Fortunately our schooner had 

 on a former occasion been used in fishing down the coast, and after 

 much argument Seiior Victorio decided to grant us a three months' 

 fishing license, at the same time clearing us with a clean bill of 

 health for the return trip to San Diego. Under this very satisfac 

 tory arrangement we could run down the coast as far as the juris- 

 diction of the northern department reaches something like 300 

 miles land where we chose, collect what we liked, and when we 

 were ready, sail away home without touching again at " Ensenada." 



While our sailing master was arranging all this, the rest of us 

 passed the day in seeing the few sights of the town, observing Mexi- 

 can life, and visiting a few old friends. Among these Mrs. Gastelum 

 holds first place, not for her society alone, though she is a woman of 

 wide experience and much knowledge, but because in a former phase 

 of her existence she was married to a Mexican customs cffiehi], who, 

 during his sojourn at various ports on the Pacific Coast, had collected 

 many bushels of shells which she has stored away in many boxes 

 and barrels. This was the second time I had overhauled the lot, 

 and as before I was astonished at the low price placed on my pick- 

 ings, after a long conference between herself and her husband a 

 later acquisition. As I paid the bill I reflected that while I should 

 undoubtedly have enjoyed the society of the former husband with, 



