EXPERIENCES IN SUMATRA. 303 



One is early impressed with the amount of life: the land is over- 

 flowing with the human species and the jungles with the lower forms. 

 Even the atmosphere is charged with it ; a piece of paper waved through 

 the air gathers the microscopical forms. A lamp is no sooner lighted 

 than a perfect zoo appears. Great beetles three and four inches long 

 go banging around in their crazy fashion, occasionally taking a header 

 down the back of the unwary. The friendly yellow lizards with their 

 queer little squeaks dart about the vails and ceilings catching flies and 

 small bugs. I have counted a dozen of them in my apartments at one 

 time. 



Were the insect and reptile life as active as in the temperate regions, 

 the lot of man would indeed be a hard one. The same conditions, how- 

 ever, which tend to keep the human species inactive, affect the pests 

 also. Perhaps the greatest pest of this part of the world is the white 

 ant, a bloated, bleached-out, repulsive little beast. He does not ven- 

 ture out into the light, but woe unto anything organic if it is left in a 

 dark corner for any length of time. He comes from somewhere and 

 immediately sets to work. 



The natives of Sumatra are a wilder, freer race than their Javanese 

 relatives, quicker of action, with keener eyes and bolder looks. At only 

 a few points in the Island have they become subject to the Dutch, and 

 nowhere to the extent that one finds in Java. Many of the Sumatra- 

 nese are still independent. Friction still exists between them and the 

 Dutch, but I was told that a white man could go almost anywhere 

 unmolested. 



Much trouble was experienced by the Dutch in the early part of 

 their rule from the Hajjis. These natives, who had made the pilgrim- 

 age to Mecca, exerted almost absolute control over the ignorant masses. 

 There were but few of them, and the necessity for keeping them friendly 

 was consequently great — and very expensive. The Dutch hit upon the 

 idea of making many Hajjis. 



The Dutch have been very successful in their management of the 

 natives. They do not interfere with the mild form of Mohammedan- 

 ism practised by the Malays nor do they allow any outside influence to 

 be exerted. ISTo missionaries are permitted to proselyte or teach among 

 the natives, and the few who have found their way into the country 

 are required to confine their efforts to the Chinese or other foreigners. 



Almost the first glance shows the status of the sexes. The women 

 are usually seen with large bundles on their heads and in their arms, 

 stepping along briskly, while the men idle about with slouching gait, 

 frequentlv carrvino- nothing but their dis'nitv or a dove cage. 



The dress of the men usually consists of a pair of gaudily figured 

 sarong trousers and a jacket, with a large square of sarong cloth twisted 

 into a cap. A sarong is usually worn by the men as a sort of badge 



