112 Land Magnetic Observations, 1911-13 



in the loading and a start was made as soon as possible. We generally got under way at 

 from 9" to 9'' 30 a. m., and traveled, on the average, about 17 miles during the day at a 

 pace varying from 2^ to 3 miles per hour. Lunch, consisting of a few sandwiches, was eaten 

 on the march, so that, except for occasional adjustment of the loads, there were no stoppages 

 till camp was reached. 



Magnetic stations were estabUshed in general at alternate camps, the average distance 

 apart being thus about 35 miles. By observing in the evenings and early mornings we 

 avoided delaying progress. The water, obtained usually at alternate camps, came from 

 artesian bores in a few cases during the earlier stages; wells of varying depths were, however, 

 the general source, though varied occasionally by natural water-holes which became more 

 prevalent as the northern portion of the route was reached. The water was often highly 

 mineralized, sometimes being to us undi"inkable. Game was scarce, but at night-time we 

 were continually visited by dingoes (wild dogs) , which, as their tracks showed in the morn- 

 ings, came noiselessly to within a few feet of our beds. 



On June 3, we passed through Dalhousie cattle station. This station is remarkable for 

 possessing a large number of springs, the water varying in temperature and purity in 

 different ones. The store at Blood's Creek, 100 miles from Oodnadatta, was passed on 

 June 6. Near here we engaged another blackfellow. The first telegraph station, at 

 Charlotte Waters, was reached on June 7. We were welcomed by Mr. Kiernan, the officer 

 who was in charge. At all telegraph stations we secured telegraphic time-signals from the 

 Adelaide Observatory. After leaving Charlotte Waters the condition of the country 

 improved, feed became plentiful, and the tracks of kangaroo and of other game were seen. 



On June 1 1 we camped near Crown Point station on the bed of the Finke, a river which 

 rises in the heart of Australia and empties into the Great Lake Eyre. Though dry for the 

 greater part of the year the Finke is a noble river when in flood, and its huge bed and wide 

 gorges point to a more glorious past. Some distance from our camp at this place there were 

 assembled upwards of a hundred blackfellows holding a "bone-breaking corroboree." The 

 main ceremony centers round the breaking of the bones of a man who has been dead for a 

 year, the object being to release his spirit. The festivities last sometimes as long as a 

 month and each evening some form of "corroboree" is given. Mr. Cox and I visited one 

 of these. It was somewhat in the nature of a theatrical entertainment, several performers, 

 in turn, going through a weird dance to the tune of a chant by the audience; excellent 

 lighting effects were produced by means of fires of half-dried gum-tree leaves. 



The hotel and store at Horseshoe Bend was reached on June 13. Next day we had 

 fifteen miles of travehng over very high and steep, moving sandhills, the only ones on the 

 whole journey. Here the camel-feed was very poor, though there was a fair amount of 

 vegetation consisting chiefly of spinifex, a coarse spiky grass growing in tall hummocks. 

 While on the march we occasionally met camel-trains, or droves of horses or cattle bound 

 for the southern markets. Our meat supply, usually consisting of salt beef, was replenished 

 at the small stores, cattle stations, or telegraph stations we passed. 



On June 20, we arrived at Alice Springs telegraph station, 330 miles from Oodnadatta, 

 where we were most hospitably entertained till June 25, by Mr. McKay, the postmaster, 

 and his wife. AUce Springs is in the Macdonnell Ranges, which consist of masses of quart- 

 zite thrown up by an intrusion of granite. Numerous rivers, evidently older than the 

 mountains, rise on the north side of the ranges and pass through level "gaps" to the south 

 side. As the ranges rise as high as 3,000 feet above the surrounding plains, some fine 

 scenery is produced. There is very rich feed in the Macdonnell Ranges and excellent horses 

 are bred in them; game is also plentiful. 



From Alice Springs we deviated 70 miles to the east to a moribund goldfield at Arltunga. 

 Returning to the telegraph line at Burt Well we proceeded through fair country to Barrow 

 Creek telegraph station, 175 miles from Alice Springs, situated in a gorge among flat-topped 



