Observers' Field Reports 103 



to obtain a blackfellow to act as guide round the coast, but in this we were unsuccessful. 

 After making observations we set our course for Cape Croker. Head winds and rough 

 seas delayed us, so that it was Wednesday afternoon when we dropped anchor in a 

 sheltered position on the west side of the cape. Resuming our voyage, we reached the 

 Aboriginal Settlement at Bowen Straits on Friday, August 14, and handed Mr. Murphy, 

 the Protector, the Administrator's instructions, directing him to accompany me in case of 

 trouble with the natives, who have a bad reputation on parts of the coast. He accordingly 

 came aboard with two of his "boys," one of whom was a boat boy and knew the coast as 

 far as King River. Our course lay eastward, and De Courcy Head was rounded after a 

 hard fight against wind and sea; but when the tide changed, we were swept back and 

 forced to shelter under Cape Cockburn for a day, during which I occupied a station 

 ashore. De Courcy Head is considered the worst place on the whole north coast, there 

 being no shelter between it and the Goulburn Islands; at times the Leichhardt and other 

 coastal vessels have been forced to shelter for a week or more before the weather would 

 permit them to round De Courcy Head. Luckily, the wind dropped a little, and by 

 making an early start we succeeded in reaching the Goulburn Islands late Tuesday night . 

 After calling at a trepang camp the next morning for water, we proceeded about 20 miles 

 up the King River to an old landing where a station was established. 



From this point eastward, the natives are of doubtful friendliness, so Mr. Murphy 

 and one of his boys always accompanied me ashore and maintained a watch during my 

 stay. A fair run was made to Liverpool River, but on the way to Glyde River strong 

 currents in Boucaut Bay held us back, and we anchored under a small island off Cape 

 Stewart. The mouth of the Glyde is very shallow, and failing to find the channel we went 

 on to the Goyder River and I made my station at an old landing not shown on the chart. 

 Being short of water, we went on into the river as far as possible in search of a waterhole, 

 but failed to find even a place to land on account of the jungle lining the banks. Return- 

 ing, we made an unsuccessful search at a deserted camp at Banyan Island, and then left 

 for Cadell Straits, hoping to meet natives who might lead us to water. On entering the 

 west end of the straits, Mr. Murphy's boy remembered a waterhole he had visited on a 

 previous occasion, and guided us to a beautiful spring where we filled every available tin. 

 About halfway through the straits, we met two canoes full of fairly wild blacks. I took 

 one who could speak a little English to act as pilot. Our party now numbered 7, and we 

 were crowded for sleeping space. Continuing along the west side of Wessel Island, we 

 found a snug anchorage on the west side of the cape on Sunday, August 30. We were now 

 24 days out and had covered more than 750 miles against strong head winds and rough 

 seas. Returning by way of Cunningham Isles and Cape Wilberforce we crossed to 

 Inglis Island in bad weather and shipped some nasty seas during a squall in the afternoon. 

 At Cape Wilberforce we found conditions outside so bad that it was dangerous to under- 

 take the proposed trip to Cape Arnhem in our little open boat, and we therefore crossed 

 to the most southern of the Bromby's Islands, where observations were made. On 

 account of the heavy seas running, our anchorage here became unsafe and we were forced 

 to return to Malay Road for shelter. It was on this crossing that we came near disaster. 

 The rudder suddenly jammed and we headed directly on the steep cliffs of Cape 

 Wilberforce. The Chinese engineer lost his head and ran about excitedly, but the blacks 

 kept cool, and our boat boy managed to steer with an oar until we were clear of the cliffs 

 and the danger was passed. The fact that we had our foresail set saved us from being 

 swamped, as it prevented the boat getting broadside on to the waves. Wishing to get 

 observations as far south as possible, we entered a large creek at the southwest corner of 

 Arnhem Bay and ascended it. hoping to find a landing, but, 20 miles in, the creek ter- 

 minated in a swamp. Our water was now completely exhausted and the waterhole to 



