108 Land Magnetic Observations, 1914-20 



of the equipment and stores was carried in a large Chinese cart, which was hired for the 

 journey as far as Tabo 01, the home of Mr. F. Larsen. 



At Tabo 01, where the party arrived on September 11,6 horses were purchased from 

 Mr. Larsen, 4 as mounts and 2 to draw the wagon. Breaking in the two fresh cart- 

 horses to the foreign wagon proved rather disastrous, for they were not accustomed to 

 double harness or center pole. Though hobbled, they were very wild and eventually 

 broke several parts of the harness and also the center pole of the wagon. To save time, 

 it was then decided to use Chinese harness and to make a pair of shafts from some wood 

 kindly supplied by Mr. Hindli, a local missionary. Another Mongol was engaged at 

 Tabo 01 as driver. 



A start was made for Urga, September 15, in cold, wet weather, and the following day 

 we were on the ox-cart road to Urga, which was followed generally for the remainder of 

 the journey. The weather for the last half of September and the first part of October 

 was fine and bright. It was often quite hot in the daytime, though cold at night. The 

 road, except for a little sand encountered five days after leaving Tabo 01, was very good, 

 leading over plains of hard soil and undulating grassland. Wells were quite numerous as 

 a rule, and the party was never short of water. Argol was used for fuel and was burned 

 in small circular open fire-grates. 



In a district of central Mongolia known as Derarangai, on September 30, a band of 

 six outlaws stopped the wagon and demanded payment of 200 ounces of silver to allow 

 the party to proceed. When this was not paid, the boxes and stores were searched and 

 finally about 20 pounds in English money, a rifle, and various stores were taken by the 

 chief, who said it would be safest to return, as the country ahead was being looted by a 

 big band of robbers. It was then decided to travel only by night to the southern border 

 of Outer Mongolia, which was reached on the third night, after two days of camping in 

 gullies away from the road. Outer Mongolia proved to be quite peaceful, but there were 

 very few caravans on the road, traffic between Kalgan and Urga having practically ceased. 



The Kuerulen River was followed for a short distance on October 13, and from here to 

 Urga, which was reached October 19, hilly country was crossed where feed for the horses 

 was not very good. We stayed at Urga much longer than we had anticipated, occupying 

 a Mongol house which was cold and disagreeable. Winter had already set in and the 

 maximum temperature during the day seldom rose above freezing. Business is slow and 

 the cost of living is high. 



Mr. Johansson visited various camel owners and caravan men, but could obtain no 

 information about a road to Liangchowfu, except that bj r going west from Urga roads 

 could be found going south to northwestern provinces of China and Turkestan. All 

 agreed that horses could not be used, owing to the very bad deserts and the utter absence 

 of grass. The horses, therefore, were sold and the wagon stored at Urga, while eight 

 camels were purchased for the next stage of the trip. 



The caravan left for Liangchowfu November 11. The Chinese cook, fearing the 

 cold, had left the party, but one of the Tabo 01 Mongols took up his duties. An Urga 

 Mongol was engaged for the camels, while the other Tabo 01 Mongol assisted him and 

 acted as "boy." Four camels were used as pack animals and three as mounts, while the 

 remaining one pulled the camel cart, which was used by the observer for traveling by day 

 and for sleeping by night. A southwesterly route was taken, and the caravan followed 

 the Urga-Uliassutai courier road November 23 to December 5. The country was either 

 mountainous or hilly, and was quite well watered and grassed. On December 6 the big 

 roads extending south were still reported to be well to the west, but on finding a small 

 t rack we decided to strike south and find the way by inquiring. On December 12, after 

 having followed the track over very rocky country and having crossed a large plain 

 without any road, a caravan route from Paotowchen to Kobdo was reached which 



