Observers' Field Reports 109 



was followed southeast until December 19. Then a road south was found which, on 

 inquiry, proved to be the caravan road from Northern Mongolia to Alashan Yamen 

 and Tingyiianying, near Ningsiafu in Kansu. On January 1 Inner Mongolia and the 

 Alashan Desert were reached, and Shartzan Sume Lamasery was visited January 3. 

 Here the lamas told of a route to Liangchowfu which could be reached by cutting 

 across country to the Chinese frontier city of Chenfanhsien. This route was chosen 

 and the latter city reached January 16, after crossing a desolate sandy waste almost 

 destitute of any kind of feed for the camels. 



We arrived at Liangchowfu January 20, and after a few days' stay to rest and feed the 

 camels, we took the main road south to Pingfan, where we arrived February 1. After 

 observing at the C. I. W. magnetic station of 1909, the main road west was followed to 

 Siningfu over the mass of high loess mountains where the roads are not suitable for camels 

 and are often very dangerous, especially where the loess cliffs are crumbling and water- 

 worn. Siningfu was reached February 8, where 5^ months' accumulation of mail 

 awaited the party. After observing here, we continued on the road west to the Tibetan 

 border (see view 8 of Plate 4), where observations were made at a large lamasery 10,500 

 feet above the sea, not far distant from Lak Koko Noi. Turning eastward, a route to 

 Lanchowfu was followed through the famous Tibetan lamasery of Kumbum, Siningfu, 

 and Hochow, the "Oxford" of Mohammedanism. We arrived March 6 at Lanchowfu, 

 where the camels were given a good rest and feed. 



From Urga to Liangchowfu the route can be divided into three stages : In Northern 

 Mongolia feed and water were generally good when far from the Mongol encampments ; 

 view 3 of Plate 4 is typical of these encampments. The road, though often stony and 

 rocky, is quite suitable for the camel cart (see view 1 of Plate 4). In central Mongolia 

 and the Gobi Desert the rock-strewn plains alternate with desolate rocky ranges of hills. 

 Feed is very poor, even for camels. Grass is scarce, but there are several varieties of 

 bushes and thorns which are food for camels and sheep, but not for horses. The roads are 

 not suitable for carts. Water is not found on the surface as in the north, and travelers 

 must follow the caravan routes, where wells are usually not more than 20 miles apart, 

 with water surprisingly close to the surface. South Mongolia and the Alashan Desert 

 proved to be the hardest stage of the trip, for the country is an arid waste of sand, inter- 

 sected in places by masses of wandering sand hills. Wells are fairly numerous, but there 

 is very little good feed for camels. Camels may be used from Liangchowfu to Siningfu, 

 but the road is more suited to mule teams. From Siningfu to Hochow and Lanchowfu 

 camels should not be taken, for there are several steep high passes which are difficult even 

 for mules. Moreover, the inns often object to camels, and when their doors and gates 

 are low, the animal has to kneel down and be dragged into the courtyard. 



While at Lanchowfu one of the camels died, chiefly of fatigue, and as the others were 

 tired, three horses were purchased as riding animals, so that the riding camels could be 

 made into pack animals, thus lightening the loads of the others. A start was made for 

 the final stage back to Kalgan, March 23, the road leading for the first two days through 

 loess hills, of which the valleys were cultivated. The remaining 6 days' travel to the city 

 of Chungweihsien was over desert country with inns at intervals of 10 to 20 miles, which 

 served to keep the road open. Soft sand makes it a poor road for carts, but being in 

 flat country, it is well adapted to camel travel. Chungweihsien was reached April 2, and, 

 after observing, the journey was resumed to Ningsiafu, through flat, irrigated farming 

 country. A delay of ten days occurred at Ningsiafu, through the civil and military 

 officials refusing to furnish escorts or to allow the party to proceed by the Yellow River 

 route. 



Arrangements had been made to sell the camels and proceed to the coast via Sianfu 

 in Shensi, when the Mohammedan general returned from his operations against the 



