Observers' Field Reports 119 



with the chief at Nahsang by which the party was to be led to Kengma with change of 

 guides from village to village. On the route the valley of the Namting was reached and 

 followed to the Shan village of Szefangching, which is situated on the old road between 

 Talifu and Mandalay. After crossing this plain, one of the lowest portions of Yunnan, 

 1,900 feet above sea, and also climbing a pass of 6,500 feet altitude from the Nam Ting 

 valley, we finally arrived at Kengma April 4. Kengma is the capital of the Shan state of 

 the same name and is the seat of the Sawbwa. It has a few shops and business is trans- 

 acted mostly at the market every 5 days. The Sawbwa was most friendly, and urged the 

 party to stay a few days as his guests. Being pressed for time, his invitation had to be 

 declined, and the journey was resumed after tiffin. 



From Kengma the direct road leads east to Weiyiian and thence south to Szemao, but 

 Major Davies's map shows an alternative route through Chiianlo on the Mekong River 

 more to the south. We could get no information concerning such a road, and were also 

 advised to take the main route east, as there was fighting with the head-hunting Was to 

 the south on the Burma frontier. 



Accordingly, the direct road east was followed, passing through Kanfang and 

 Mengmeng. The main route was now left and a small road was taken to the Shan capital 

 of Mengpan, where we arrived April 12, after a southeasterly march of 5}^ days, during 

 which high mountains were climbed by a very rough and steep road. The Mekong River 

 was crossed at the Tahuan ferry in a punt, and the horses were forced to swim. The 

 country all the way from Kengma had been formerly inhabited by the La tribe, who were 

 conquered by the Chinese. The latter have settled in the mountains, while the Shans 

 are found in the valleys, those to the east of the Mekong wearing a costume different 

 from those to the west. Continuing from Mengpan to Szemao, we passed through 

 Mengchu on April 13, formerly a Shan place but now peopled entirely by Chinese, and the 

 Puman village of Pa Te on April 14. Two more days of mountain travel finally brought 

 the caravan to Szemao, a treaty port in the far southwest part of Yunnan. Arrival here 

 ended the roughest but most interesting stage of the journey across southern China to 

 Canton from Burma. The nights had been spent in all kinds of places, ranging from 

 Sawbwa's palaces to sheds used for storing coffins and farming implements. Among the 

 Shans it is usual for travelers to stay at the monasteries, where no money is accepted for 

 the accommodation. In the hills the chief or headman usually has a small house or shed 

 for the use of official visitors. Europeans, however, prefer to camp throughout the 

 journey. The so-called roads over the mountains are but narrow tracks, and guides are 

 absolutely necessary. Practically all supplies must be purchased at the 5-day markets, 

 but chickens and eggs can be obtained at most places, though the Shans are not always 

 willing to sell. The people were very friendly, but often timid and shy. They are not 

 inquisitive or curious, and often take no notice of the foreigner. 



It was now necessary to press on and complete the 36 days' overland journey to 

 Kwangsi before the dreaded wet season broke. A start was accordingly made April 20 

 for Mengtsz, 18 days' travel towards the east, and the old prefectural city of Puerhfu was 

 passed the following day. Puerh tea is extensively grown in the district and sent to 

 Szechwan by coolie and horse caravans. On April 23 an ascent of 1,700 feet was made to 

 pass above Mohei, where there are large salt mines from which the salt is sent to various 

 parts of the province by pack-horses. 



Leaving Mohei April 24, 4 days of very mountainous travel led through the Chinese 

 village of Tungkwan Yun, and then to the walled city of Talang, which is situated in the 

 middle of a district inhabited by the Wo Ni tribes. The town has outgrown its original 

 mud wall, but it is yet quite small and contains no large shops. 



Travel from Talang to Yuankiang by the main road takes 3 days, but we followed a 

 smaller road which reduces the time to 2 days, and, after a descent of 4,000 feet, arrived 



