Observers' Field Reports 125 



the junction of two rivers, and marks the end of the native cargo-boat traffic. There 

 a large cargo boat, laden with paper, dried fish, and bamboo rope, was boarded for the 

 final stage of the journey to Yenpingfu, but in attempting the large rapid just below 

 the town, she was dashed onto a partly submerged rock, and after being almost over- 

 turned, was swept on by the rush of waters, with the bottom boards stove in. The 

 crew hurriedly ran her ashore where the cargo was transferred to a salvage boat sent 

 down from the city. As extensive repairs were needed, the trip was not resumed until 

 the following afternoon, Kungchwan being reached by evening. This section of the 

 river is very attractive, bare red cliffs of sandstone rising abruptly from the water's 

 edge, with wooded hills and mountains on every hand. The large walled city of Shah- 

 sien was reached September 14, where a smaller boat was hired, in which we arrived 

 at Yenpingfu early the following morning. From Yungan down, the river had been 

 full of dangerous rapids and races, and many boats are wrecked and fives lost in the 

 worst of them. 



Yenpingfu, like Rome, is built on seven hills, though the chief business center runs 

 along the river bank. It is interesting as an old "Fu" city, but is of no special impor- 

 tance except as a shipping point for local products. Red lacquer-ware is made in the 

 city. 



From Canton to this point (August 18 to September 15) the weather had been 

 bright and hot, with occasional short wet intervals and thunderstorms. The people 

 appear to be very enlightened, friendly, and accustomed to foreigners, thanks to mis- 

 sionary activity. Generally speaking, carriers are expensive and unsatisfactory. Most 

 of the traffic is on the rivers, and the traveler would do well to avoid overland journeys 

 except those across divides or in the mountains. Cantonese currency is in use as far 

 as Lungyenchow, beyond which assorted chopped dollars and Hupeh small coins are 

 current. Supplies can be obtained everywhere, except between Lungyenchow and 

 Siaotao. Chickens, eggs, rice, flour, vegetables, and fruit are for sale at most villages, 

 while at the larger towns tinned milk, fruits, biscuits, and even meat can be procured. 

 The various dialects encountered are the chief difficulty of the traveler, and are often 

 the cause of loss of time and money. Cantonese is of little use beyond Laolung and a 

 knowledge of Hakka would not take one far beyond Kaying. Mandarin is undoubtedly 

 the most useful Chinese to speak, and in most places it was found that the better 

 classes of merchants and gentry had a knowledge of it. 



From Yenpingfu to Nanchang the party followed the well-known main route via 

 the Tiu River to Kienchangfu, and thence north down the Fu River to the capital. 

 The trip to Shaowu, 120 miles, lasted 6 days, and was made in a small boat locally 

 termed a "min chiang." Above Yangkow the rapids are less dangerous and the river 

 narrows often to 100 or 200 feet. The natives fish from small bamboo rafts with cor- 

 morants. Villages are not numerous and there is considerable waste land. Tea is 

 cultivated on the hill slopes and rice in the valleys. Shaowu is an old "Fu" city, which 

 has never recovered from the Taiping rebellion, when it was sacked and two-thirds of 

 its population killed. The city walls surround residences and ruins, the chief business 

 streets being outside the city. Paper is a local industry, and rice is exported down river, 

 though there is but one crop a year. Winter crops are beans, peas, and wheat. 



From here an overland stage of about 70 miles via the busy walled city of Kwangtseh 

 was made to Chikai, a village at the head of small-boat navigation on a small river join- 

 ing the Fu River near Kienchangfu. On the afternoon of September 26 the province 

 of Kiangsi was entered at the village of Shankwan, situated among small hills at an 

 elevation of 1,000 feet above sea-level. The road to Chikai is paved throughout, and 

 is in fair condition in spite of the wheelbarrow traffic. Villages and hamlets are numer- 

 ous, though none appears very prosperous, the houses being poor structures of wood 



