Observers' Field Reports 127 



for the instruments, which, owing to the uneven roads and constant bumping, could 

 not be carried on the barrows. Wheelbarrow travel to the European is the height of 

 discomfort, even when properly padded and propped up by baskets, but one sees Chinese 

 gentlemen riding for miles, one on each side of the barrow, a framework carrying two 

 seats, built around a large wheel A well-dressed Chinese lady may often be seen in 

 half of the barrow, with a trussed-up pig, its snout pointing to the sky, in the other 

 half. The porker is never backward in voicing his complaints when the road is particu- 

 larly rough, and the hideous squeak of the barrow is accompanied by a series of grunts. 

 The average European prefers to walk, but there is no choice left to a magnetic observer, 

 loaded with chronometers and watches requiring careful handling. On the morning of 

 the second day we crossed the Ta Ling Shan, a range of low but steep hills, by an easy 

 pass up a long valley, at an elevation of about 600 feet above sea-level. From Shih- 

 chenkai to Iyang the road generally is good, with a stone track for pedestrians alongside 

 an earth track for barrows. 



From Iyang, travel was resumed in a small boat 23 miles up river to Hokow, where 

 another boat was taken, and late in the evening of October 14, the journey of 27 miles 

 was completed to Kwangsinfu, an old "Fu" city, large and busy, exporting country 

 produce. Its inhabitants are not quite friendly, but previous to Boxer Year (1900) it 

 was their boast that no foreigner had entered their gates. The Kwangsin River is more 

 interesting than the Fu River, and above Iyang Ki it varies in width from 100 to 300 

 yards, flowing through gently undulating country, with bare red cliff-like hills of sand- 

 stone occurring here and there. Mountain ranges are visible to the north and south. 

 Large weirs are built across the river every few miles, with narrow channels left open 

 for boat traffic. The water is thus kept in the upper reaches, and many shallow stony 

 rapids which otherwise would be impassable for boats are made navigable. For the 

 remaining stage up river, 33 miles, another boat was hired and Yushan was reached on 

 the evening of October 17. Small bamboo rafts are used on this stretch and fishing 

 with cormorants was often seen. The town is quite extensive, and marks the end of 

 the short overland trade route from the headwaters of the Kii River in Chekiang. With 

 the assistance of the mission station, coolies were hired for the 27 miles overland, which 

 was finished October 18. The road is paved throughout and undulates gently through 

 low grassy hills of red and grey rock. Villages and hamlets are numerous and there is 

 considerable coolie, wheelbarrow, and mule traffic. 



The journey down river was commenced in a small boat, to Chiichowfu, where 

 observations were made October 22 in the Martyrs' Cemetery in the city, a pretty 

 spot where lie the remains of the English and American missionaries murdered during 

 Boxer Year. Chiichowfu is a large walled city with a population of about 80,000 

 people, the streets are fairly wide and clean, and are lined with good shops and stores. 

 Above Chiichowfu the river flows through low hills and undulating farming country 

 producing rice, barley, fruit, and sugar cane. Rapids are numerous, but not dangerous. 

 At noon on October 25, Tungkwan, a suburb of Yenchow, was reached, and a halt 

 made to change the police escort which had been imposed upon the party ever since 

 reaching Changshan Che. At this point the Singan Kiang flows in from the west, and 

 the combined streams form the Tsien Tang Kiang, which below Yenchow enters a 

 gorge. On both banks are narrow strips of cultivated land producing millet, maize, 

 barley, potatoes, and vegetables. After a stop at Tunglu, we went by launch 60 miles 

 down river to the provincial capital, Hanchow, a large up-to-date c'ty connected by 

 railway with Shanghai. It is famous throughout China for its beautiful West Lake, 

 where the natural beauties of a large sheet of water, surrounded by wooded hills and 

 islets, have been enhanced by the picturesque grouping of temples, flower gardens, and 

 pagodas. After a call at Zikawei Observatory, where a cordial welcome was given by 



