132 Land Magnetic Observations, 1914-20 



the Bulu territory and enters the country of the Yaounde tribes. The country is thickly 

 forested and very hilly, but the path is good enough for a bicycle. 



A march of 3 days over hilly but populous country was next made to Yaounde, 

 the old German military capital of the Cameroun. It is pleasantly situated on several 

 steep hills, at an altitude of 2,500 feet above sea-level. It is much cooler and less humid 

 than the damp coastal towns. The mean temperature for the year is only 24 C, and 

 during certain seasons the night temperatures are as low as 17 C. In addition to the 

 government post there are several British trading firms and also some French "facto- 

 ries." While here, news was received of the signing of the Peace Treaty, and the 

 Governor having proclaimed a general holiday, the 30th of June was given over to the 

 peace festivities. Sports were held for the natives during the afternoon and all the 

 local chiefs arrived with their followers, the latter forming into groups of dancers. 



The work at Yaounde being completed July 1, the party bade farewell on the fol- 

 lowing day to the comparatively civilized coastal area, and set out across central Came- 

 roun for Yoko, a French government post 10 days' travel northeast. Just north of 

 Yaounde the thick tropical forest ends abruptly, the nature of the country changing to 

 low rolling hills covered with open bush and scrub. In the dry season this is splendid 

 game country, the grass being burnt off each year by the natives; during the wet season, 

 however (May to October), the rank grass 10 to 15 feet high effectively hides the ante- 

 lope, swine, and buffalo. 



A good motor road leads to the Sanaga River, 3 days' march north of Yaounde; 

 beyond, the type of village suddenly changes, the huts being round, with conical roofs 

 (see view 3 of Plate 3), instead of the familiar rectangular pent-roofed huts of bark and 

 bamboo of the forest region. Two days again beyond the Sanaga River, which the 

 natives refer to as the "Big Water" (it is 200 to 300 yards wide), is the important native 

 town of Nghila, where there was formerly a mission station. The country here is less 

 populous, the villages are often separated by several hours' march, and the road grows 

 worse, the chief difficulties being at the small rivers and streams which often have steep 

 banks of red laterite clay that becomes very slippery after a rain. The road, as else- 

 where in the Cameroun, is divided into stages of 20 to 35 kilometers (12 to 22 miles). 

 At the end of every stage, one finds a small camp, maintained by the local chief, con- 

 taining a rest house for the white man, a kitchen hut, and other huts for the carriers. 

 On arrival the chief comes to salute the European, usually bringing a chicken, some eggs, 

 and fruit. Food for the carriers is supplied in the afternoon or evening, consisting of 

 cooked plantain or cassava or boiled maize flour, depending on the locality. Carriers 

 march at 5 kilometers an hour, and as the average government stage is 25 kilometers, 

 the daily march averages 5 to 6 hours. Early morning starts at 5 or 6 a.m. are prefer- 

 able. The march can then be finished by noon, avoiding the heat of the afternoon, and 

 also the heavy thunderstorms in the wet season, which generally commence at 2 or 3 

 p. m. Loads are usually carried on the head on a small pillow made by twisting grass or 

 reeds together. A load must not exceed 30 kilos (about 60 lbs.), and each carrier is 

 paid 1.25 francs per day, this amount including payment for his food. With a stage 

 from 25 to 30 kilometers, it is quite easy to arrive at the night stop by noon, thus leaving 

 the afternoon and evening free for observations. For this reason no delays for observa- 

 tions were made except at the government posts after marches of 8 to 12 days. Yoko 

 was reached on the morning of July 11, where I was hospitably entertained at the 

 government post, which is built in the form of a fort and most pleasantly situated, over- 

 looking the plain of the Sanaga River to the south. Except for the afternoon storms, the 

 weather was ideal, with cloudy mornings and temperatures of 17 C. at 6 a.m. 



From Yoko the main road extends first due north to Tibati, a march of 5 days, and 

 thence turns northeast to Ngaoundere, an important town in central Cameroun. The 



