134 Land Magnetic Observations, 1914-20 



the rest-house near the palace. On my arrival the sultan sent a cow, pots of honey, and 

 several calabashes of butter for me and an enormous quantity of food for the carriers. 

 One can not refuse these presents without giving offense, but at the same time one is 

 expected to give a suitable present in return. Europeans nowadays do not carry actual 

 presents, but pay a sum of money equivalent to the food given by the sultan. With 

 the abundant supplies given, of which only one-quarter possibly might be used, a visit 

 to one of these towns proves rather expensive. 



From Rei Bouba the journey was continued to Garoua in two small canoes from 

 August 8 to 11. The trip can be made in two days under ordinary conditions, but heavy 

 storms on two occasions and the necessary halt for observations at Lagdo delayed the 

 party. At a half day's paddle from the town the Rei empties into the Benue, an important 

 tributary of the Niger. The county is flat and uninteresting, except at Lagdo, where 

 the river flows through a pretty gorge. 



Garoua, which was defended by the Germans during the late war until tne allied 

 forces were able to shell the position from a near-by range of hills, is an important 

 post, marking the head of steam navigation on the Benue River. During the high-water 

 season, from July or August to December, the paddle steamers of the Niger Company 

 ascend from Burutu on the coast, with stores and supplies for the ensuing year. The 

 exports are chiefly rubber, hides, and a small quantity of ivory. In ordinary times the 

 traveler can secure supplies at the Niger Company's factory, but owing to the war and 

 the fact that the first boat of the season had not arrived, a few tins of biscuits, some 

 sugar, and tinned fish were all that remained in the way of tinned goods. An ample 

 supply of flour and kerosene, however, was obtained here, for it was probable that the 

 French factory at Fort Lamy would have even less provisions than at Garoua. 



In the dry season the main road is used to Fort Lamy, passing by Maroua, which 

 is 8 days' march from Garoua. Fort Lamy is another 7 days beyond. Between August 

 and November, however, the road beyond Maroua is impassable in the swamps, and 

 the French officials use the route passing by Lere to Bongor on the Logone River, which 

 is 12 days' march to the northeast, descending the river from that point either by steamer 

 or canoe. 



In order to obtain the best possible distribution of stations, I followed the main 

 route to Dikoa in northern Nigeria, near the southwest corner of Lake Tchad, 15 days' 

 march to the north. The road as far as Madagali skirts the mountains of Mandara, 

 and is hilly and very stony. I had walked the 42 days' march from Campo to Rei Bouba 

 without fatigue, but north of Garoua the elevation is much less and the heat is very ener- 

 vating. A horse was accordingly hired from point to point, together with native saddle 

 and a horse-boy. 



The country is covered with low-wooded bush, but in places it becomes quite park- 

 like. There are numerous large villages, each with a sultan, who comes out at the head 

 of his horsemen and drummers to meet the traveler. 



Thanks to the French captain in charge of the Maroua Circonscription, who had 

 very courteously warned the chief of my coming, the party received every assistance 

 and was provided with an escort of 10 mounted spearmen during the day's march. The 

 sultan sent a sheep or goat for food, with chickens, eggs, honey, rice, and butter to every 

 camping place. 



The heaviest rains fall in September, but already large portions of the road were 

 swampy and several rivers were neck deep. The crossing of a flooded river perhaps 

 200 feet wide was a matter of much concern to me, for once a carrier lost his footing there 

 would be little hope of saving the load. At the first of these rivers, encountered 2 days 

 after leaving Garoua, the first men sent over were washed off their feet and only gained 

 the bank by swimming. It seemed impossible that carriers could cross with their loads, 



