Observers' Field Reports 147 



western shore of a fine lake. The fort is of the usual type, a square raised earthwork 

 with a dry moat around and circular "tambours" at the corners. Inside were the resi- 

 dence of the commandant, a store, and a prison. The large mound built by Captain 

 Lemaire to mark his observation spot of 1899 could not be found, and no information 

 concerning it could be obtained from the local natives. On leaving Dilolo we found a 

 rest-house the first day at Lutembo, built on a ridge overlooking a bad swamp, about 1 

 mile of which had to be traversed in a canoe. Transport of 21 carriers with their loads 

 under such conditions is a lengthy proceeding which consumed 5 1 2 hours. The following 

 day we found the main road turned off southeast to Kazombo, which is the administra- 

 tive center of the frontier region. 



Several sinuous, sluggish, mangrove-lined rivers were crossed during the next 3 

 days' march, some by canoe and others by tottering native bridges of dead sticks. One 

 afternoon the noise of tom-toms and much shouting at a village ahead announced the 

 performance of some rite or ceremony, which proved to be a trial of some unfortunate 

 witches by a witch-doctor, "smelling-out" evildoers. An open space in the bush was 

 fined by excited men and women, and at one end, in a hut of green boughs, were huddled 

 the prisoners. The witch-doctor was a large, evil-looking man, carrying all the acces- 

 sories of his craft in his hands, and wearing a head-dress of feathers. His face was 

 painted red, and he paraded up and down between two lines of villagers, making contor- 

 tions and gesticulations to the accompaniment of a low chanting. He was preceded by 

 a band of half a dozen youths whose bodies were painted with yellow, red, and white 

 stripes. At the end of the clearing opposite to the hut, one man was beating himself 

 and wailing and making a great show of grief. Such practices are forbidden by the Gov- 

 ernment, but in remote districts they are still continued. 



Kavungo was reached on May 26, where a cordial welcome was extended to me by 

 the English missionaries. The Chokwe carriers were paid off and sent back, without 

 regret on either side. It had been necessary to teach them travel-discipline on several 

 occasions, once after several, including the carrier of the "chop box," had stayed out in 

 the bush all night. The final overland stage of about 420 kilometers to the Katanga 

 Railway at Chilongo in the Belgian Congo was commenced June 2, and covered by 

 June 19. 



On leaving Kavungo the traveler again finds the country more undulating with 

 numerous rivers, difficult to cross because of the swamps which line them. The main 

 road has rest-houses and is cleared throughout. It passes by way of Kai Anda on the 

 Belgian Congo frontier, and then turns south to Kalene Hill in the extreme northwest 

 corner of Northern Rhodesia. At the Mwandeje rest-house, 2 days' trek from Kavungo, 

 a Kaffir path was taken direct to the abandoned fort of Bumba, which was reached 

 June 6. The villages in this district are surrounded by palisades and thorn hedges on 

 account of lions, and the carriers preferred to sleep in the middle of a village in such 

 localities. We arrived at the frontier on June 7, at the Jimbi River, where British ter- 

 ritory was entered and a camp made that evening on the bank of the Zambezi River, a 

 picturesque stream, at this place about 50 feet wide, flowing in a rocky bed with many 

 rapids. 



The English Mission station of Kalene Hill was reached next morning. It is perched 

 on the north end of a quartzite escarpment rising 450 feet above the country on the 

 west, and commands a fine view of the Zambezi Valley. A very pleasant stay was made 

 here for observations, and on June 10 the Zambezi was again crossed at a point 15 miles 

 from its source, and the Belgian Congo entered the same afternoon. The country soon 

 becomes very hilly, maintaining altitudes from 3,500 to 4,500 feet above sea-level. There 

 is the usual alternation of wooded bush and grassy plain, with numerous rivers and 

 swamps. A day was spent in the Musokantanda Plain in company with Dr. Fisher, the 



