Observers' Field Reports 183 



H. E. Sawyer, on Magnetic Work in French West Africa, Guinea Coast, and Nigeria, 



July 1913 to November 1914. 



Acting upon the instructions of the Director dated September 12, 1912, and those 

 of Mr. D. W. Berky, chief of party, I left Timbuktu July 21, 1913. The instruments 

 consisted of universal magnetometer No. 20, pocket chronometer No. 254, watch No. 

 8282, and miscellaneous appurtenances, all of which had been in use since leaving Algiers 

 in October 1912. 



The general route followed was up the Niger River, across the inland railroad to the 

 Senegal, down that river to the coast, thence southward around the coast to Lagos, 

 Nigeria, making inland trips on the railroads in Ivory Coast, Gold Coast, and Togoland. 

 From Lagos the route followed the railroad to Kano, then eastward overland to the Benue 

 River, ascending it as far up as it is navigable to Garoua south of Lake Tchad, then down 

 the Benue and Niger Rivers to Forcados. At Timbuktu, at the conclusion of the Trans- 

 Saharan expedition (for an account of which see Volume II of these Researches, pages 

 68 to 79), the party was divided, Mr. D. W. Berky, who had been in charge of that 

 expedition, going south down the Niger to Dahomey and thence by rail to Cotonou, 

 while I was put in charge of a party to make our way westward to the Atlantic. Mr. 

 Berky left Timbuktu the evening of July 20, 1913, on the 7-mile march to Kabara (Cab- 

 aret) on the Niger; I followed the next morning with a donkey caravan, and embarked 

 at the same place. As his barge swung around and floated down-stream, the black 

 punters of my barge began pushing it up-stream. When conditions were favorable, the 

 barge was towed by a grass rope nearly 100 yards in length, which was later replaced 

 by a new rope for which the boatmen exchanged a liter of crushed salt crystals. 



The first station occupied was at Niafunke on July 26, and as evidence that we were 

 leaving the desert behind we heard for the first time the roaring of lions roaming. Gourao, 

 on the banks of Lake Debo, about 300 kilometers from Timbuktu, was occupied July 30. 

 Coming across this lake was the first river steamer of the season bound down-stream. 

 Several of the crew were wading ahead in water less than waist deep, trying to find 

 sufficient depth for the steamer, which would often attempt a course and proceed a short 

 distance only to become grounded, making it necessary then to turn to one side or back 

 for another attempt. Assisted by a fair and favorable breeze our barge made rapid 

 progress. 



On approaching Mopti signs of increasing vegetation are more in evidence. Near 

 the landing place a chained lion was pacing along the flat mud roof of one of the shops, 

 gently growling as the horses or sheep passed in the street beneath him. Rice grown in 

 the surrounding country was for sale in the markets in large quantities. A dike pro- 

 tecting the rice fields extends 7 miles across to rising ground on the south. Its crown, 

 lined with 2 rows of young trees, makes a pleasant drive, which is evidence of advancing 

 civilization. On August 8 the magnetic station Kee was made on the site of a deserted 

 village. Segou station, where one of the few cotton gins of French West Africa is located, 

 was occupied on August 15. 



We arrived at Koulikoro on August 21, just a month after leaving Timbuktu. This 

 is the eastern terminus of a railway by which the overland journey across the divide 

 between the upper Niger and the upper Senegal is made. The more convenient and 

 expeditious mode of transportation is reflected in the better class of buildings; the brick 

 houses, with their tiled roofs, doors, floors, and glass windows, being a conspicuous 

 contrast to the mud and straw houses with which we had become so familiar since emerg- 

 ing from the desert. At this point the welcome change in our mode of travel from barge 

 to railway was made. The palace of the Lieutenant-Governor is located an hour's ride 

 by rail from Koulikoro at Bammako, where one finds a thriving city of fine buildings, 

 parks, ice and electric plants, printing offices, barbers, and other civilized conveniences. 



