278 THE WATERLTI.IES. 



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(1897) preparation of good garden soil or sod compost with one-third to 

 one-half of manure gives the finest possible results. Swamp muck is not 

 at all to be recommended. If well-rotted cow manure can not be had, 

 bone dust may be substituted in the proportion of "a six-inch pot full to a 

 barrow load of soil" (Tricker, 1. c.). Even in such strong materials a good 

 plant of any of the larger tender forms will completely exhaust the nutri- 

 ment in a half-barrel of soil before the end of the season ; hence the desir- 

 ability of larger tubs for the best results. The plants should be placed 

 with the crown on a level with the surface of the soil. This should be 

 covered with i to 3 cm. of clean sand to keep the manure down and to 

 prevent the activities of certain aquatic worms which often carry up much 

 fine matter to the surface of the tub and tend to bury the plant. For the 

 hardy varieties the tub must be placed deep enough in the water to be 

 safe from actually freezing. Tender varieties need to be within 15 to 25 cm. 

 of the water surface in order to take advantage of the greater warmth 

 of the upper strata. The area of water surface required per plant depends 

 upon the species and the size of the tub it is planted in. I have seen 

 N. rubra, N. marliacea chromatella, and N. tctragona in a tank 120 cm. 

 square, with the water-poppy flourishing in whatever space remained ; and 

 all four species bloomed freely all summer. Each of the Nymphaeas had 

 one flower every clay, and sometimes two, and the water-poppy sometimes 

 had a dozen flowers at once ! But they were badly crowded. N. tctra- 

 gona will be satisfied with a space 60 cm. square ; most of the hardy varie- 

 ties require a space 100 to 120 cm. square for a single shoot; and the 

 tender varieties will cover a space 3 to 5 meters across. 



Once placed as above described, the plants need no attention 

 throughout the season except to keep up the water supply and trim off 

 dead leaves and flowers. They should bloom at the rate of a new flower 

 every two or three days, or perhaps one every day. As each flower lasts 

 two to five days, the display is always fine. Of course the varieties differ 

 in production of flowers, and the situation and other circumstances have 

 their effects. Hardy species should not be moved for two or three years at 

 least, but the tender ones must be wintered with considerable care. Large 

 blooming plants may be lifted with a ball of earth 30 to 60 cm. in diameter, 

 potted, and kept in a warm tank with plenty of light. They will then 

 bloom all winter, and may be planted out again. It is best, however, to 

 let old plants of the tender day-blooming species die. The night- 

 bloomers should be taken up in late October or early November, potted 

 in sand or planted under the bench of the conservatory, and allowed 



