A VISIT TO THE NEW ZEALAND GEYSERS. 361 



coming sheer down steep and rocky several hundred feet into the 

 water, and backed by fine mountains. At the end of the lake a stream 

 of warm water runs into it from the Lake Rotomahana, but the stream 

 is so swift that progress against it is very slow ; we therefore left the 

 natives to bring the boat up, while we walked on with one of them for 

 a guide. A walk of about a mile brought us to the top of some high 

 ground, whence we got our first view of the glorious white terrace of 

 Rotomahana. 



It was a sight that never can be forgotten. It is impossible to 

 imagine anything more lovely than the appearance of that marvelous 

 marble-looking terrace, lying, set in a green frame, on the mountain- 

 side, and reflected again in the glassy water of the lake, as we first saw 

 it in the rosy light of a calm autumn sunset. To get to the terrace we 

 had to cross the warm stream ; the boat had not yet appeared, and we 

 were impatient. After a slight hesitation, the guide thought he could 

 carry us across. The stream was deep and swift, but the man took us 

 all safely over without a single false step ; only when it came to Mr. 



F 's turn, the Maori wanted to have a little preliminary practice 



with him on dry land first, Mr. F being about three times as big 



as his porter. Captain Mair then took us under his charge to explore 

 the wonders of the white terrace. 



The general appearance of the terrace is that of a gigantic stair- 

 case on the mountain-side. It is about one hundred and fifty feet in 

 height, and at the top nearly three hundred feet across, and fully twice 

 as much round the lowest steps. The steps are roughly semicircular 

 in form, varying from two or three to ten feet in height, more or less 

 smooth on their horizontal, but on their perpendicular faces carved by 

 the trickling water into the most delicate representations of flower and 

 fruit carvings, or soft, white, coral sprays. At the top there is an 

 immense 6aldron of pale-blue boiling water of unknown depth ; even 

 the steam rising from it in clouds was quite decidedly blue. This cal- 

 dron in all probability is the crater of an extinct volcano which has 

 been invaded by water. The idea that the origin of the terrace is due 

 to volcanic agency, and not to deposits by the water, is supported by 

 the fact that where the silica crust has been knocked away a formation 

 of coarse tufa and pumice-stone appears. The depositing power of the 

 water is, however, very great, and articles exposed for curiosity to its 

 action become very quickly covered with a delicate white coating. On 

 each step there are holes of various sizes filled with the most lovely 

 blue water, slightly milky, of the most perfect turquoise-blue, looking, 

 oh ! so beautiful in its coral cups. The water from the caldron pours 

 down, steaming and bubbling, overflowing from hole to hole, losing its 

 heat by degrees on the way, until it reaches the lowest steps quite cold. 

 These lowest steps were especially beautiful ; the pools on them were 

 larger and bluer than on the others, and the absence of steam left them 

 in perfect peaceful beauty ; the steps, too, though generally of a purer 



