396 THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. 



discovered, that the butcher's display of joints offers so small a range 

 for choice, it is not from that source that wholesome and pleasing ad- 

 ditions to the table will be obtained. 



But our most respectable paterfamilias, addicted to " plain living," 

 might be surprised to learn that the vaunted " roasting " has no longer 

 in his household the same significance it had five-and-twenty years 

 ago ; and that probably, during the latter half of that term, he has 

 eaten no roast meat, whatever he may aver to the contrary. Baking, 

 at best in a half-ventilated oven, has long usurped the function of the 

 spit in most houses, thanks to the ingenuity of economical range-mak- 

 ers. And the joint, which formerly turned in a current of fresh air 

 before a well-made fire, is now half stifled in a close atmosphere of its 

 own vapors, very much to the destruction of the characteristic flavor 

 of a roast. This is a smaller defect, however, as regards our present 

 object than that which is involved by the neglect in this country of 

 braising as a mode of cooking animal food. By this process more 

 than mere " stewing " is of course intended. In braising, the meat is 

 just covered with a strong liquor of vegetable and animal juices {braise 

 or mirepoix) in a closely covered vessel, from which as little evapora- 

 tion as possible is permitted, and is exposed for a considerable time to 

 a surrounding heat just short of boiling. By this treatment tough, 

 fibrous flesh, whether of poultry or of cattle, or meat unduly fresh, 

 such as can alone be procured during the summer season in towns, is 

 made tender, and is furthermore impregnated with the odors and flavor 

 of fresh vegetables and sweet herbs. Thus, also, meats which are 

 dry, or of little flavor, as veal, become saturated with juices and com- 

 bined with sapid substances, which render the food succulent and 

 delicious to the palate. Small portions sufficing for a single meal, 

 however small the family, can be so dealt with ; and a rechmtffee, or 

 cold meat for to-morrow, is not a thing of necessity, but only of choice 

 when preferred. Neither time nor space permits me to dwell further 

 on this topic, the object of this paper being rather to furnish sugges- 

 tions than explicit instruction in detail. 



The art of frying is little understood, and the omelet is almost 

 entirely neglected by our countrymen. The products of our frying- 

 pan are often greasy, and therefore for many persons indigestible, the 

 shallow form of the pan being unsuited for the process of boiling in 

 oil, that is, at a heat of nearly 500 Fahr., that of boiling water being 

 212. This high temperature produces results which are equivalent 

 indeed to quick roasting, when the article to be cooked is immersed in 

 the boiling fat. Frying, as generally conducted, is rather a combination 

 of broiling, toasting, or scorching ; and the use of the deep pan of 

 boiling oil or dripping, which is essential to the right performance of 

 the process, and especially preventing greasiness, is a rare exception 

 and not the rule in ordinary kitchens. Moreover, few English cooks 

 can make a tolerable omelet ; and thus one of the most delicious and 



