FOOD AND FEEDING. 515 



Still it is not quite so widely appreciated as it deserves to be in the prep- 

 aration of many a small dish of fish, fowl, and meat, to say nothing of a 

 grilled mushroom, either alone or as an accompaniment to any of them. 

 And it may be worth while, perhaps, remarking that the sauce par ex- 

 cellence for broils is mushroom ketchup; and the garnish cool lettuce, 

 watercress, or endive. And this suggests a word or two on the impor- 

 tant addition which may be made to most small dishes of animal food 

 under the title of " garnish." Whether it be a small fillet, braised or 

 roasted, or a portion thereof broiled; a fricandeau, or the choice end 

 of a neck of mutton made compact by shortening the bones; or a 

 small loin, or a dish of trimmed neck cutlets, or a choice portion of 

 broiled rumpsteak; a couple of sweetbreads, poultry, pigeon, or what 

 not the garnish should be a matter of consideration. Whether the 

 dish be carved on the family table, as it rarely fails to be when its 

 head is interested in the cuisine, or whether it is handed in the pres- 

 ence of guests, the quality and the appearance of the dish greatly de- 

 pend on the garnish. According to the meat, may be added with a 

 view both to taste and appearance, some of the following purees of 

 sorrel, spinach, and other greens, of turnips, and of potatoes plain, 

 in shapes, or in croquettes; cut carrots, peas, beans, endive, sprouts, 

 and other green vegetables; stewed onions, small or Spanish; cucum- 

 bers, tomatoes, macaroni in all forms; sometimes a few sultanas boiled, 

 mushrooms, olives, truffles. In the same way chestnuts are admirable, 

 whole, boiled, or roasted, and as a pur'ee freely served, especially in 

 winter when vegetables are scarce; serving also as farce for fowls and 

 turkeys. While such vegetables as green peas, French and young 

 broad beans, celery and celeriac, asparagus, seakale, cauliflower, spin- 

 ach, artichokes, vegetable marrows, etc., are worth procuring in their 

 best and freshest condition, to prepare with especial care as separate 

 dishes. 



It is doubtful whether fish is esteemed so highly as an aliment as 

 its nutritious qualities entitle it to be, while it offers great opportunity 

 for agreeable variety in treatment. As a general observation, it may 

 be said that in preparing it for table sufficient trouble is not taken to 

 remove some portion of the bones; this can be advantageously done 

 by a clever cook without disfiguring or injuring the fish. Sauces 

 should be appropriately served : for example, the fat sauces, as hollan- 

 daise and other forms of melted butter, are an appropriate comple- 

 ment of hot boiled fish, while mayonnaise is similarly related to cold. 

 These and their variations, which are numerous, may also accompany 

 both broiled and fried fish, but these are often more wholesome and 

 agreeable when served with only a squeeze of lemon-juice, and a few 

 grains of the zest, if approved, when a fresh green lemon is not to be 

 had, and it rarely can be here. But the juice of the mushroom is 

 preferred, and no doubt justly, by some. Endless variations and addi- 

 tions may be made according to taste on these principles. But there 



