FOOD AND FEEDING. 517 



distributed over the salad. This is next to be tossed well, but lightly, 

 until every portion glistens, scattering meantime a little finely chopped 

 fresh tarragon and chervil, with a few atoms of chives, over the whole. 

 Lastly, but only immediately before serving, one small tablespoonful 

 of mild French vinegar is to be sprinkled over all, followed by another 

 tossing of the salad.* The uncooked tomato, itself the prince of 

 salads, may be sliced and similarly treated for separate service, or 

 added to the former, equally for taste and appearance. Cold boiled 

 asparagus served with a mayonnaise forms a dish, of its kind, not to 

 be surpassed. At present ranking, when the quality is fine, as an ex- 

 pensive luxury, there is no reason why, with the improved methods of 

 cultivating this delicious and wholesome vegetable, it should not be 

 produced in great abundance, and for less than half its present price.f 

 As to the manifold green stuffs which, changing with the season, may 

 be presented as salad, their name is legion ; and their choice must be 

 left to the eater's judgment, fancy, and digestion, all of which vary 

 greatly. 



The combination of dishes to form a meal now demands our con- 

 sideration. The occupations of man in a civilized state, no less than 

 the natural suggestions of his appetite, require stated and regular 

 times for feeding. But the number of these set apart in the twenty- 

 four hours differs considerably among different peoples and classes. 

 Taking a general view of the subject, it may be said that there are 

 three principal systems to which all varieties of habit may be reduced. 

 From an English point of view, these may be regarded as 



1. The Continental system of two meals a day. 



2. The system of provincial life (Great Britain), or four meals. 



3. The system of town life (Great Britain), or three meals. 



1. In the Continental system, the slight refreshment served in the 

 early morning, in the form of coffee or chocolate, with a rusk or a 

 morsel of bread, does not amount to a meal. It is only a dish, and that 

 a light one, and not a combination of dishes, which is then taken. At 

 or about noon a substantial meal, the dejeuner, is served ; and at six 

 or seven o'clock, an ample dinner. Such is the two-meal system, and 

 it appears to answer well throughout the west and south of Europe. 



2. What I have termed the provincial system consists of a sub- 

 stantial breakfast at eight or nine, a dinner at one or two, a light tea 

 about five, and a supper at nine or ten. It is this which is popular 

 throughout our own provincial districts, and also among middle-class 

 society of our northern districts throughout both town and country. 

 The habits also of the great German nation correspond more to this 

 than to the first-named system. 



* A salad for five or six persons is supposed. 



f On this subject, and also on salad culture, see " The Parks and Gardens of Paris," 

 by W. Robinson, F. L. S., p. 468, et seq., second edition. Macmillan, 1878. 



