FOOD AND FEEDING. 521 



different kind to that of a miscellaneous assortment of tidbits alluded 

 to. Oysters are, in fact, the first dish of dinner and not its precursor ; 

 the first chapter, and not the advertisement. And this brings us to 

 the dinner of invitation. 



And of this dinner there are two very distinct kinds : First, there 

 is the little dinner of six or eight guests, carefully selected for their 

 own specific qualities, and combined with judgment to obtain an har- 

 monious and successful result. The ingredients of a small party, like 

 the ingredients of a dish, must be well chosen to make it " complete." 

 Such are the first conditions to be attained in order to achieve the 

 highest perfection in dining. Secondly, there is the dinner of society, 

 which is necessarily large ; the number of guests varying from twelve 

 to twenty-four! 



The characteristics of the first dinner are comfort, excellence, 

 simplicity, and good taste. Those of the second are the conventional 

 standard of quality, some profusion of supply, suitable display in orna- 

 ment and service. 



It must be admitted that, with the large circle of acquaintances 

 so commonly regarded as essential to existence in modern life, large 

 dinners only enable us to repay our dining debts, and exercise the hos- 

 pitality which position demands. With a strong preference, then, for 

 the little dinners, it must be admitted that the larger banquet is a 

 necessary institution ; and therefore we have only to consider now how 

 to make the best of it. 



No doubt the large dinner has greatly improved of late ; but it 

 has by no means universally arrived at perfection. Only a few years 

 ago excellence in quality and good taste in cuisine were often sacri- 

 ficed in the endeavor to make a profuse display. Hence, abundance 

 without reason, and combinations without judgment, were found 

 coexisting with complete indifference to comfort in the matters of 

 draughts, ventilation, temperature, and consumption of time. Who 

 among the diners-out of middle age has not encountered many a time 

 an entertainment with some such programme as the following : one 

 of an order which, it is to be feared, is not even yet quite extinct ? 



Eighteen or twenty guests enter a room adapted at most to a 

 dinner of twelve. It is lighted with gas ; the chief available space 

 being occupied by the table, surrounding which is a narrow lane, 

 barely sufficing for the circulation of servants. Directly perhaps 

 after oysters appear turtle soups, thick and clear. A consomme is to 

 be had on demand, but so unexpected a choice astonishes the servitor, 

 who brings it after some delay, and cold ; with it, punch. Following, 

 arrive the fish salmon and turbot, one or both, smothered in thick 

 lobster sauce : sherry. Four entrees promenade the circuit in single file, 

 whereof the first was always oyster patties ; after which came mut- 

 ton or lamb cutlets, a vol-au-vent, etc. : hock and champagne. Three 

 quarters of an hour at least, perhaps an hour, having now elapsed, 



