5 22 THE POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. 



the saddle or haunch of mutton arrives, of which gentlemen who have 

 patiently waited get satisfactory slices, and currant jelly, with cold 

 vegetables or a heavy, flabby salad. Then come boiled fowls and 

 tongue, or a turkey with heavy forcemeat ; a slice of ham and so 

 on, up to game, followed by hot, substantial pudding, three or four 

 other sweets, including an iced pudding ; wines in variety, more or 

 less appropriate ; to be followed by a pate de foie gras, more salad, 

 biscuits and cheese. Again, two ices, and liqueurs. Then an array 

 of decanters, and the first appearance of red wine ; a prodigious dessert 

 of all things in and out of season, but particularly those which are 

 out of season, as being the more costly. General circulation of waiters, 

 handing each dish in turn to everybody, under a running fire of nega- 

 tives, a ceremonial of ten or fifteen minutes' duration, to say the least. 

 Circulation of decanters ; general rustle of silks, disaj^pearance of the 

 ladies ; and first change of seat, precisely two hours and a half after 

 originally taking it. It may be hoped that a charming companion on 

 either side has beguiled and shortened a term which otherwise must 

 have been felt a little long. Now the general closing up of men to 

 host, and reassembling of decanters ; age and qualities of wine, recom- 

 mendation of vintages. Coffee which is neither black nor hot. Join- 

 ing the ladies ; service of gunpowder tea, fatal to the coming night'?; 

 rest if taken in a moment of forgetfulness ; and carriages announced. 



Admitted that such an exhibition is impossible now in any reason- 

 able English circle, it nevertheless corresponds very closely in style 

 with that of the public dinner ; a state of things without excuse. 

 And the large private dinner is still generally too long, the menu too 

 pretentious. Let me, however, be permitted to record, equally in 

 proof of growing taste and as grateful personal duty, how many ad- 

 mirable exceptions to the prevailing custom are now afforded. Then, 

 of course, it must be understood that, while the dinner for six or eight 

 persons is designed as an harmonious whole of few, well-chosen dishes, 

 all of which are intended to be eaten in their order, the menu of the 

 larger party must offer various dishes for choice to meet the differing 

 tastes of more numerous guests, and it must therefore be larger. Let 

 us see how this is to be met. First, the soups : it is the custom to 

 offer a consomm'e, which ought to be perfect in clearness, color, and 

 savor, and to be served perfectly hot ; containing vegetables, etc., 

 variously treated doubtless the best commencement, as it is the key- 

 note, of the dinner ; revealing also, as it does nine times out of ten, 

 the caliber of the cook to whose talent the guest is intrusted. But 

 there is mostly an alternative of " white soup," and this is almost al- 

 ways a mistake. Many persons refuse it, and they are right, contain- 

 ing, as it generally does, a considerable proportion of cream an inju- 

 dicious beginning, when there is much variety to follow ; excellent 

 sometimes as one of three or four dishes, but dangerous otherwise to 

 the guest who has not an exceptionally powerful digestion. But, sup- 



