FOOD AND FEEDING. 627 



plication and confusion which often appears in culinary directions and 

 receipts. But the gastronomic art is a simpler one than the effusions 

 of some of its professors might lead the wholly uneducated to be- 

 lieve ; and the complicated productions originated by some of its 

 past and greatest practitioners are as unnecessary as are the long and 

 complicated prescriptions formerly in vogue with the leading physi- 

 cians of past time. Both were the natural outgrowth of an age when 

 every branch of technical education was a " mystery," and when those 

 who had attained the meaning thereof magnified their craft in the 

 eyes of the vulgar by obscuring what is simple in a cloud of pedantic 

 terms and processes. But that age and its delusions are passing away, 

 and it is high time for simplicity in the practice of cookery to take the 

 place of some useless and extravagant combinations and treatment 

 which tradition has handed down. 



At the present day it appears desirable, before all things, to secure 

 the highest quality of all produce, both animal and vegetable ; a re- 

 spectable standard being rarely attained throughout our country in 

 regard to the products of the latter kingdom. Great Britain has long 

 held, and still maintains, the first place as to quality for her beef and 

 mutton ; in no other country in Europe I can not speak of America 

 is it possible to obtain these meats so tender, juicy, and well devel- 

 oped. The saddle, the haunch, the sirloin, and the round, so admirable 

 on occasions, are only in danger of suffering here, like intimate friends, 

 from too great familiarity with their charms. But even our standard 

 of quality in meat has been gradually lowered, from the closer strug- 

 gle, year by year, to produce a fat animal in a shorter space of time 

 than formerly ; a result which is accomplished by commencing to feed 

 almost exclusively on oil-cake at a very early period of life. The re- 

 sult of this process is, that size and weight are attained by a deposit 

 of fat, rather than by the construction of muscular fiber, which alone 

 is true meat ; while, as a necessary consequence, the characteristic 

 flavor and other qualities of fully developed beef and mutton are 

 greatly wanting in modern meat. 



Much more unsatisfactory is the supply of vegetable and dairy 

 produce to our great city, particularly of the former. It must be con- 

 fessed that our market at Covent Garden, in relation to capabilities for 

 effective distribution of fresh vegetables, etc., would disgrace a town 

 one fifth of the size of London. Nineteen twentieths of its inhabitants 

 can not obtain fresh green food on any terms, and those who succeed 

 pay an exorbitant price. I think I am right in saying that a really 

 new-laid egg is a luxury which a millionaire can scarcely insure by 

 purchase ; he may keep fowls, and with due care obtain it, not other- 

 wise. The great staple of our bread, commonly called "baker's 

 bread," is unpalatable and indigestible ; and I suppose no thoughtful 

 or prudent consumer would, unless compelled, eat it habitually used 

 as it nevertheless is by the great majority of the inhabitants of this 



