DBUSS AND ADORNMENT. 



795 



deprive it of the smoky smell due to cocoa. When thus exposed 

 for a few hours, the cloth is spread on grass or sand and the opera- 

 tion of toogihea begins stamping it in certain places with the 

 juice of liea, which constitutes a brilliant red varnish. This is 

 done in straight lines, along the junctions of the printed edges, 

 and serves to conceal irregularities. It is also done in other places 

 in the form of round spots an inch and a quarter in diameter. 

 Exposed to dew, and next day to the sun, it is packed for future 

 use. When not printed or stained the cloth is called tapa. 



Schweinfurth describes the urostigma of the Monbuttos, which 

 is used much as the shirt tree of the Brazilians. He says that 

 nearly every house has its 

 trees, which need cultiva- 

 tion. He states that the re- 

 moval of the bark does no 

 harm to the tree, and that 

 a new growth is ready in 

 three years. He adds the 

 interesting fact that this 

 bark cloth is the common 

 dress, and that skins are 

 worn only when in fancy 

 dance dress. The 

 cance of this we shall 

 later. 



Besides tanning, beating 

 bark, and felting hair, the 

 search for dress materials 

 and study of their use have 

 given rise to the art of 

 weaving. This art begins 

 in basketry and plaiting, 

 Seldom at present do we 

 find plaited dress articles. 

 Wood, however, mentions 



some of interest. In the lower Murray region of Australia a 

 circular mat (paringkoont) made of reed ropes coiled and bound 

 together by fibers of chewed bulmol is worn. It is simply folded 

 about the body and tied at the waist. In New Zealand the native 

 wild flax supplies a wonderfully fine material for plaiting. It is 

 fully utilized, and nowhere do we find more elegant mat gar- 

 ments. Wood describes several kinds. 



A mat may be made of phormium leaf cut into strips an inch 

 wide, each alternate one being dyed black. Each strip is divided 

 into eight little strips or thongs plaited into a checker-work. 

 Other styles of " mats " are made of phormium. The fibers of the 



signifi- 



see 



Fig. 6. 



South Sea Islander with Dress of Bark 

 Cloth. 



