i56 BANDA ORIENT^M.. [chap. vm. 



By tlie middle of the day, on the 28th, we arrived at Monte 

 Video, having been two days and a half on the road. The 

 country for the whole way was of a very uniform character, 

 some parts being rather more rocky and hilly than near 

 tiie Plata. Not far from Monte Video we passed through 

 tlie village of Las Pietras, so named from some large rounded 

 masses of syenite. Its appearance was rather pretty. In this 

 country a few fig-trees round a group of houses, and a site ele- 

 vated a hundred feet above the general level, ought always to be 

 called picturesque. 



During the last six months I have had an opportunity of seeing 

 a little of the character of the inhabitants of these provinces. 

 The Gauchos, or countrymen, are very superior to those who 

 reside in the towns. The Gaucho is invariably most obliging, 

 polite, and hospitable : I did not meet with even one instance of 

 rudeness or inhospitality. He is modest, both respecting himself 

 and country, but at the same time a spirited, bold fellow. On 

 the other hana, many robberies are committed, and there is much 

 bloodsiied : the habit of constantly wearing the knife is the chief 

 cause of the latter. It is lamentable to hear how many lives are 

 lost in trifling quarrels. In fighting, each party tries to mark 

 the face of his adversary by slashing his nose or eyes ; as is often 

 attested by deep and horrid-looking scars. Robberies are a 

 natural consequence of universal gambling, much drinking, and 

 extreme indolence. At Mercedes I asked two men why they 

 did not work. One gravely said the days were too long ; the 

 other that he was too poor. The number of horses and the pro- 

 fusion of food are the destruction of all industry. Moreover, 

 there are so many feast-days ; and again, nothing can succeed 

 without it be begun when the moon is on the increase; so that 

 half the month is lost from tlies^e two causes. 



Police and justice are quite inefficient. If a man who is poor 

 commits murder and is taken, he will be imprisoned, and perhaps 

 even shot ; but if he is rich and has friends, he may rely on it no 

 very severe consequence will ensue. It is curious that the most 

 respectable inhabitants of tlie country invariably assist a murderer 

 to escape : they seem to think that the individual sins against the 

 government, and not against the |)eople. A traveller has no pro* 



