♦26 ^EW ZE ALAIsD. [chap, xviii. 



been mistaken for our father-land : nor was it the triumpliant 

 feeling at seeing what Englishmen could effect; but rather the 

 high hopes thus inspired for the future progress of this fine 

 island. 



Several young men, redeemed by the missionaries from slavery, 

 W'ere employed on the farm. They were dressed in a shirt, 

 jacket, and trousers, and had a respectable appearance. Judging 

 from one trifling anecdote, I should think they must be honest. 

 When walking in the fields, a young labourer came up to Mr. 

 Davies, and gave him a knife and gimlet, saying that he had found 

 them on the road, and did not know to whom they belonged ! 

 These young men and boys appeared very merry and good-hu- 

 moured. In the evening I saw a party of them at cricket : when 

 I thought of the austerity of which the missionaries have been 

 accused, I was amused by observing one of their own sons taking 

 an active part in the game. A more decided and pleasing change 

 was manifested in the young women, who acted as servants within 

 the houses. Their clean, tidy, and healthy appearance, like 

 that of dairy-maids in England, formed a wonderful contrast 

 with the women of the filthy hovels in Kororadika. The wives 

 of the missionaries tried to persuade them not to be tattooed ; 

 but a famous operator having arrived from the south, they said, 

 " We really must just have a few lines on our lips; else when 

 we grow old, our lips will shrivel, and we shall be so very ugly." 

 There is not nearly so much tattooing as formerly ; but as it is a 

 badge of distinction between the chief and the slave, it will pro- 

 bably long be practised. So soon does any train of ideas become 

 habitual, that the missionaries told me that even in their eyes 

 a plain face looked mean, and not like that of a New Zealand 

 gentleman. 



Late in the evening I went to Mr. Williams's house, where I 

 passed the night. I found there a large party of children, col- 

 lected together for Christmas-day, and all sitting round a table 

 at tea. I never saw a nicer or more merry group ; and to think 

 that this was in the centre of the land of cannibalism, murder, 

 and all atrocious crimes! The cordiality and happiness so 

 plainly pictured in the faces of the little circle, appeared equally 

 felt by the older persons of the mission. 



December 24/A. — In the morning, prayers were read in the 



