VI.] BECOME PROPRIETOR OF 26 HORSES. 23 



minutes I had the satisfaction of learning that I had become 

 the proprietor of twenty-six horses, as many bridles and 

 pack-saddles, and three guides. 



There being no roads in Iceland, all the traffic of the 

 country is conducted by means of horses, along the bridle- 

 tracks which centuries of travel have worn in the lava plains. 

 As but little hay is to be had, the winter is a season of fasting 

 for all cattle, and it is not until spring is well advanced, and 

 the horses have had time to grow a little fat on the young 

 grass, that you can go a journey. I was a good deal taken 

 aback when the number of my stud was announced to me ; 

 but it appears that what with the photographic apparatus, 

 which I am anxious to take, and our tent, it would be im- 

 possible to do with fewer animals. The price of each pony 

 is very moderate, and I am told I shall have no difficulty in 

 disposing of all of them, at the conclusion of our expedition. 



These preliminaries happily concluded, Mr. J invited 



us into his house, where his wife and daughter — a sunshiny 

 young lady of eighteen — were waiting to receive us. As 

 Latin here was quite useless, we had to entrust Sigurdr with 

 all the pretty things we desired to convey to our entertainers ; 

 but it is my firm opinion that that gentleman took a dirty 

 advantage of us, and intercepting the choicest flowers of our 

 eloquence, appropriated them to the advancement of his own 

 interests. However, such expressions of respectful admira- 

 tion as he suffered to reach their destination were received 

 very graciously, and rewarded with a shower of smiles. 



The next few days were spent in making short expeditions 

 in the neighbourhood, in preparing our baggage-train, and 

 in paying visits. It would be too lorig for me to enumerate 

 all the marks of kindness and hospitality I received during 

 this short period. Suffice it to say, that I had the satisfac- 

 tion of making many very interesting acquaintances, of be- 

 holding a great number of very pretty faces, and of partaking 

 of an innumerable quantity of luncheons. In fact, to break 

 bread, or, more correctly speaking, to crack a bottle with the 

 master of the house, is as essential an element of a morning 



