VIII.] 



HAMMERFEST. 



139 



was as much surprise as pleasure that I experienced, when, 

 after having with many misgivings ventured to slip through 

 an opening in the monotonous barricade of mountains, we 



found it was the right channel to our port. If the king of 

 all the Goths would only stick up a lighthouse here and 

 there along the edge of his Arctic seaboard, he would save 

 many an honest fellow a heart-ache. 



I must now finish this long letter. 



Hammerfest is scarcely worthy of my wasting paper on it. 

 When I tell you that it is the most northerly town in Europe, 

 I think I have mentioned its only remarkable characteristic. 

 It stands on the edge of an enormous sheet of water, com- 

 pletely landlocked by three islands, and consists of a con- 

 gregation of wooden houses, plastered up against a steep 

 mountain ; some of which being built on piles, give the 

 notion of the place having slipped down off the hill half-way 

 into the sea. Its population is so and so, — its chief ex- 

 ports this and that ; for all which, see Mr. Murray's ''Hand- 

 book," where you will find all such matters much more 

 clearly and correctly set down than I am likely to state 

 them. At all events, it produces milk, cream — not butter — 

 salad, and bad potatoes ; which is what we are most inter- 

 ested in at present. To think that you should be all revel- 

 ling this very moment in green-peas and cauliflowers ! I 

 hope you don't forget your grace before dinner. 



I will write to you again before setting sail for Spitzbergen. 



