X.] ARRIVAL AT ALT EN. 165 



Alten, — the more unceremoniously I walked in and took 

 possession of the first unoccupied bed I stumbled on, the 



better Mr. T would be pleased ; but British punctilio 



would not allow me to act on the recommendation, though 

 we were sorely tried. In the meantime the mosquitoes had 

 become more intolerable than ever. At last, half mad 

 with irritation, I set off straight up the side of the nearest 

 mountain, in hopes of attaining a zone too high for them to 

 inhabit ; and, poising myself upon its topmost pinnacle, I 

 drew my handkerchief over my head — I was already with- 

 out coat and waistcoat — and remained the rest of the morn- 

 ing " mopping and mowing " at the world beneath my feet. 

 About six o'clock, like a phantom in a dream, the little 

 schooner came stealing round the misty headland, and 

 anchored at the foot of the rocks below. Returning imme- 

 diately on board, we bathed, dressed, and found repose 

 from all our troubles. Not long after, a message from Mr. 



T , in answer to a card I had sent up to the house as 



soon as the household gave signs of being astir — invited us 

 to breakfast ; and about half-past nine we presented our- 

 selves at his hospitable door. The reception I met with 

 was exactly what the gentleman who had given me the 

 letter of introduction had led me to expect ; and so eager 



did Mr. T seem to make us comfortable, that I did not 



dare to tell him how we had been prowling about his house 

 the greater part of the previous night, lest he should knock 

 me down on the spot for not having knocked him up. The 

 appearance of the inside of the house quite corresponded 

 with what we had anticipated from the soigne air of every- 

 thing about its exterior. Books, maps, pictures, a number 

 of astronomical instruments, geological specimens, and a 

 magnificent assortment of fishing-rods, betrayed the habits 

 of the practical, well-educated, business-loving English gen- 

 tleman who inhabited it ; and as he showed me the various 

 articles of interest in his study, most heartily did I con- 

 gratulate myself on the lucky chance which had brought me 

 into contact with so desirable an acquaintance. 



