74 RIO COLORADO. [chap. iv. 



the Gauchos, he has obtained an unbounded popularity in the 

 country, and in consequence a despotic power. I was assured 

 by an English merchant, that a man who had murdered another, 

 when arrested and questioned concerning his motive, answered, 

 " He spoke disrespectfully of General Rosas, so I killed him." 

 At the end of a week the murderer was at liberty. This doubt- 

 less was the act of the general's party, and not of the general 

 himself. 



In conversation he is enthusiastic, sensible, and very grave. 

 His gravity is carried to a high pitch : I heard one of his mad 

 buffoons (for he keeps two, like the barons of old) relate the 

 following anecdote : " I wanted very much to hear a certain 

 piece of music, so I went to the general two or three times to 

 ask him ; he said to me, ' Go about your business, for I am en- 

 gaged.' I went a second time ; he said, * If you come again I 

 will punish you.' A third time I asked, and he laughed. I 

 rushed out of the tent, but it was too late ; he ordered two 

 soldiers to catch and stake me. I begged by all the Saints in 

 heaven he would let me off; but it would not do ; when the 

 general laughs he spares neither mad man nor sound." The 

 poor flighty gentleman looked quite dolorous, at the very recol- 

 lection of the staking. This is a very severe punishment ; four 

 posts are driven into the ground, and the man is extended by his 

 arms and legs horizontally, and there left to stretch for several 

 hours. The idea is evidently taken from the usual method of 

 drying hides. My interview passed away without a smile, and 

 I obtained a passport and order for the government post-horses, 

 and this he gave me in the most obliging and ready manner. 



In the morning we started for Bahia Blanca, which we 

 reached in two days. Leaving the regular encampment, we 

 passed by the toldos of the Indians. These are round like ovens, 

 and covered with hides ; by the mouth of each, a tapering chuzo 

 was stuck in the ground. The toldos were divided into separate 

 groups, which belonged to the different caciques' tribes, and the 

 groups were again divided into smaller ones, according to the 

 relationship of the owners. For several miles we travelled 

 along the valley of the Colorado. The alluvial plains on 

 the side appeared fertile, and it is supposed that they are well 

 adapted to the growth of corn. Turning northward from the 



