110 BAHIA BLANCA TO BUENOS AYRES. [chap. vt. 



mountain a guanaco. The plain, which abuts against the Sierra, 

 is traversed by some curious gulleys, of which one was about 

 twenty feet wide, and at least thirty deep ; we were obliged in 

 consequence to make a considerable circuit before we could find 

 a pass. We stayed the night at the posta, the conversation, as was 

 generally the case, being about the Indians. The Sierra Ven- 

 tana was formerly a great place of resort ; and three or four 

 years ago there was much fighting there. My guide had been 

 present when many Indians were killed : the women escaped to 

 the top of the ridge, and fought most desperately with great 

 stones ; many thus saving themselves. 



September Wth. Proceeded to the third posta in company 

 with the lieutenant who commanded it. The distance is called 

 fifteen leagues ; but it is only guess-work, and is generally over- 

 stated. The road was uninteresting, over a dry grassy plain ; 

 and on our left hand at a greater or less distance there were some 

 low hills; a continuation of which we crossed close to the posta. 

 Before our arrival we met a large herd of cattle and horses, 

 guarded by fifteen soldiers ; but we were told many had been 

 lost. It is very difficult to drive animals across the plains ; for 

 if in the night a puma, or even a fox, approaches, nothing can 

 prevent the horses dispersing in every direction ; and a storm 

 will have the same effect. A short time since, an -officer left 

 Buenos Ayres with five hundred horses, and when he arrived at 

 the army he had under twenty. 



Soon afterwards we perceived by the cloud of dust, that a 

 party of horsemen were coming towards us ; when far distant 

 my companions knew them to be Indians, by their long hair 

 streaming behind their backs. The Indians generally have a 

 fillet round their heads, but never any covering ; and their black 

 hair blowing across their swarthy faces, heightens to an uncom- 

 mon degree the wildness of their appearance. They turned out 

 to be a party of Bernantio's friendly tribe, going to a salina for 

 salt. The Indians eat much salt, their children sucking it like 

 sugar. This habit is very different from that of the Spanish 

 Gauchos, who, leading the same kind of life, eat scarcely any : 

 according to Mungo Park,* it is people who live on vegetable 



* Travels in Africa, p. 233. 



