190 FALKLAND ISLANDS. [chap. ix. 



when on level ground it does not appear an easy job for one man 

 to kill a beast mad with terror. Nor would it be so, if the horse, 

 when left to itself without its rider, did not soon learn, for its 

 own safety, to keep the lazo tight; so that, if the cow or ox 

 moves forward, the horse moves just as quickly forward ; other- 

 wise, it stands motionless leaning on one side. This horse, how- 

 ever, was a young one, and would not stand still, but gave in to 

 the cow as she struggled. It was admirable to see with what 

 dexterity St. Jago dodged behind the beast, till at last he con- 

 trived to give the fatal touch to the main tendon of the hind leg ; 

 after which, without much difficulty, he drove his knife into the 

 head of the spinal marrow, and the cow dropped as if struck by 

 lightning. He cut off pieces of flesh with the skin to it, but 

 without any bones, sufficient for our expedition. We then rode 

 on to our sleeping-place, and had for supper ; carne con cuero,' 

 or meat roasted with the skin on it. This is as superior to com- 

 mon beef as venison is to mutton. A large circular piece taken 

 from the back is roasted on the embers with the hide downwards 

 and in the form of a saucer, so that none of the gravy is lost. If 

 any worthy alderman had supped with us that evening, ' carne con 

 cuero/ without doubt, would soon have been celebrated in London. 

 During the night it rained, and the next day (17th) was very 

 stormy, with much hail and snow. We rode across the island to 

 the neck of land which joins the Rincon del Toro (the great 

 peninsula at the S. W. extremity) to the rest of the island. From 

 the great number of cows which have been killed, there is a 

 large proportion of bulls. These wander about single, or two 

 and three together, and are very savage. I never saw such mag- 

 nificent beasts ; they equalled in the size of their huge heads and 

 necks the Grecian marble sculptures. Capt. Sulivan informs 

 me that the hide of an average-sized bull weighs forty-seven 

 pounds, whereas a hide of this weight, less thoroughly dried, is 

 considered as a very heavy one at Monte Video. The young 

 bulls generally run away for a short distance ; but the old ones 

 do not stir a step, except to rush at man and horse ; and many 

 horses have been thus killed. An old bull crossed a boggy 

 stream, and took his stand on the opposite side to us ; we in vain 

 tried to drive him away, and failing, were obliged to make a 

 large circuit. The Gauchos in revenge determined to emasculate 



