292 



CHILOE. [chap. xiv. 



and Aconcagua most rarely shows any signs of action. It 

 is difficult even to conjecture, whether this coincidence was 

 accidental, or shows some subterranean connection. If Vesuvius, 

 Etna, and Hecla in Iceland (all three relatively nearer each 

 other, than the corresponding points in South America) suddenly 

 burst forth in eruption on the same night, the coincidence would 

 be thought remarkable ; but it is far more remarkable in this 

 case, where the three vents fall on the same great mountain- 

 chain, and where the vast plains along the entire eastern coast, 

 and the upraised recent shells along more than 2000 miles 

 on the western coast, show in how equable and connected a 

 manner the elevatory forces have acted. 



Captain Fitz Roy being anxious that some bearings should be 

 taken on the outer coast of Chiloe, it was planned that Mr. King 

 and myself should ride to Castro, and thence across the island to 

 the Capella de Cucao, situated on the west coast. Having hired 

 horses and a guide, we set out on the morning of the 22nd. We 

 had not proceeded far, before we were joined by a woman and 

 two boys, who were bent on the same journey. Every one on 

 this road acts ona " hail fellow well met fashion ;" and one 

 may here enjoy the privilege, so rare in South America, of tra- 

 velling without fire-arms. At first, the country consisted of a 

 succession of hills and valleys : nearer to Castro it became very 

 level. The road itself is a curious affair ; it consists in its whole 

 length, with the exception of very few parts, of great logs of 

 wood, which are either broad and laid longitudinally, or narrow 

 and placed transversely. In summer the road is not very bad : 

 but in winter, when the wood is rendered slippery from rain, 

 travelling is exceedingly difficult. At that time of the year, the 

 ground on each side becomes a morass, and is often overflowed : 

 hence it is necessary that the longitudinal logs should be fastened 

 down by transverse poles, which are pegged on each side into the 

 earth. These pegs render a fall from a horse dangerous ; as the 

 chance of alighting on one of them is not small. It is remark- 

 able, however, how active custom has made the Chilotan horses. 

 In crossing bad parts, where the logs had been displaced, they 

 skipped from one to the other, almost with the quickness and 

 certainty of a dog. On both hands the road is bordered by the 

 lofty forest-trees, with their bases matted together by canes. 



