1835.] CHILOE. 293 



When occasionally a long reach of this avenue could be beheld, 

 it presented a curious scene of uniformity : the white line of 

 logs, narrowing in perspective, became hidden by the gloomy 

 forest, or terminated in a zigzag which ascended some steep hill. 



Although the distance from S. Carlos to Castro is only twelve 

 leagues in a straight line, the formation of the road must have 

 been a great labour. I was told that several people had formerly 

 lost their lives in attempting to cross the forest. The first who 

 succeeded was an Indian, who cut his way through the canes in 

 eight days, and reached S. Carlos : he was rewarded by the 

 Spanish government with a grant of land. During the summer, 

 many of the Indians wander about the forests (but chiefly in the 

 higher parts, where the woods are not quite so thick), in search 

 of the half-wild cattle which live on the leaves of the cane and 

 certain trees. It was one of these huntsmen who by chance dis- 

 covered, a few years since, an English vessel, which had been 

 wrecked on the outer coast. The crew were beginning to fail in 

 provisions, and it is not probable that, without the aid of this 

 man, they would ever have extricated themselves from these 

 scarcely penetrable woods. As it was, one seaman died on the 

 march, from fatigue. The Indians in these excursions steer by 

 the sun ; so that if there is a continuance of cloudy weather, they 

 cannot travel. 



The day was beautiful, and the number of trees which were in 

 full flower perfumed the air ; yet even this could hardly dis- 

 sipate the effect of the gloomy dampness of the forest. More- 

 over, the many dead trunks that stand like skeletons, never fail 

 to give to these primeval w r oods a character of solemnity, absent 

 in those of countries long civilized. Shortly after sunset we bi- 

 vouacked for the night. Our female companion, who was rather 

 good-looking, belonged to one of the most respectable families in 

 Castro : she rode, however, astride, and without shoes or stockings. 

 I was surprised at the total want of pride shown by her and her 

 brother. They brought food with them, but at all our meals sat 

 watching Mr. King and myself whilst eating, till we were fairly 

 shamed into feeding the whole party. The night was cloudless ; 

 and while lying in our beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it is a 

 high enjoyment) of the multitude of stars which illumined the 

 darkness of the forest. 



