1835.] IQUIQUE. SALTPETRE-WORKS. 363 



pounds sterling, was sent to France and England. It is princi- 

 pally used as a manure and in the manufacture of nitric acid : owing 

 to its deliquescent property it will not serve for gunpowder. For- 

 merly there were two exceedingly rich silver-mines in this neigh- 

 bourhood, but their produce is now very small. 



Our arrival in the offing caused some little apprehension. Peru 

 was in a state of anarchy; and each party having demanded a 

 contribution, the poor town of Iquique was in tribulation, think- 

 ino- the evil hour was come. The people had also their domestic 

 troubles ; a short time before, three French carpenters had broken 

 open, during the same night, the two churches, and stolen all the 

 plate : one of the robbers, however, subsequently confessed, and 

 the plate was recovered. The convicts were sent to Arequipa, 

 which, though the capital of this province, is two hundred leagues 

 distant ; the government there thought it a pity to punish such 

 useful workmen, who could make all sorts of furniture ; and 

 accordingly liberated them. Things being in this state, the 

 churches were again broken open, but this time the plate was not 

 recovered. The inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and de- 

 claring that none but heretics would thus " eat God Almighty," 

 proceeded to torture some Englishmen, with the intention of 

 afterwards shooting them. At last the authorities interfered, 

 and peace was established. 



\2,th. In the morning I started for the saltpetre-works, a dis- 

 tance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended the steep coast- 

 mountains by a zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of the 

 mines of Guantajaya and St. Rosa. These two small villages are 

 placed at the very mouths of the mines ; and being perched up on 

 hills, they had a still more unnatural and desolate appearance 

 than the town of Iquique. We did not reach the saltpetre-works 

 till after sunset, having ridden all day across an undulating coun- 

 try, a complete and utter desert. The road was strewed with the 

 bones and dried skins of the many beasts of burden which had 

 perished on it from fatigue. Excepting the Yultur aura, which 

 preys on the carcasses, I saw neither bird, quadruped, reptile, nor 

 insect. On the coast-mountains, at the height of about 2000 

 feet, where during this season the clouds generally hang, a very 

 few cacti were growing in the clefts of rock ; and the loose sand 

 was strewed over with a lichen, which lies on the surface quite 



