183G.1 ST. HELENA ASCENSION. 491 



In my walks I passed more than once over the grassy plain, 

 bounded by deep valleys, on which Longwood stands. Viewed 

 from a short distance, it appears like a respectable gentleman's 

 country-seat. In front there are a few cultivated fields, and 

 beyond them the smooth hill of coloured rocks called the Flag- 

 staff, and the rugged square black mass of the Barn. On the 

 whole the view was rather bleak and uninteresting. The only 

 inconvenience I suffered during my walks was from the impe- 

 tuous winds. One day I noticed a curious circumstance : stand- 

 ing on the edge of a plain, terminated by a great cliff of about a 

 thousand feet in depth, I saw at the distance of a few yards 

 right to windward, some tern, struggling against a very strong 

 breeze, whilst, where I stood, the air was quite calm. Ap- 

 proaching close to the brink, where the current seemed to be 

 deflected upwards from the face of the cliff, I stretched out my 

 arm, and immediately felt the full force of the wind : an invisible 

 barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly calm air from a 

 strong blast. 



I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and moun- 

 tains of St. Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the morning of 

 the 14th to descend to the town. Before noon I was on board, 

 and the Beagle made sail. 



On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who have 

 beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, will at 

 once be able to picture to themselves the appearance of Ascen- 

 sion. They will imagine smooth conical hills of a bright red 

 colour, with their summits generally truncated, rising separately 

 out of a level surface of black rugged lava. A principal mound 

 in the centre of the island, seems the father of the lesser cones. 

 It is called Green Hill ; its name being taken from the faintest 

 tinge of that colour, which at this time of the year is barely 

 perceptible from the anchorage. To complete the desolate scene, 

 the black rocks on the coast are lashed by a wild and turbulent 



sea. 



The settlement is near the beach ; it consists of several houses 

 and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of white free- 

 stone. The only inhabitants are marines, and some negroes 

 liberated from slave-ships, who are paid and victualled by govern- 



