DRESS 45 



a bamboo bat, a betel-nut knapsack, and by sucb adornments in the shape of beads, and other 

 things, as the man may have been able to acquire. 



The woman's dress consists almost invariably of a close-fitting, buttonless jacket with red 

 body and black sleeves. Her skirt is a double sacklike garment made out of abated fiber. A 

 girdle of braided human hair or of braided vegetable fiber holds this coarse dress in place. A 

 selection of beads, shells, and herbs hang from this girdle at the right side. A comb in the hair, 

 a pair of ear disks in the ears, a few necklets, and frequently leglets, complete the apparel. The 

 children's clothing is a duplicate of that of their respective parents on a smaller and less elaborate 

 scale. 



PREFERENTIAL COLORS IN DRESS 



In the matter of color a decided preference is shown for red, yellow, white, and dark blue. 

 This is not so exacting in the case of beads, which are purchased indiscriminately, but even in 

 these I am of the opinion that if there were a choice in the supply, the above-mentioned colors 

 would be preferred. 



The Manobo, then, is not encumbered with all the weight and variety of modern modes and 

 fashions. Shoes, slippers, and hose are not a part of his apparel. Blankets and other articles 

 for protection against cold are not to be found in his wardrobe. In the house and out of the house, 

 by night and by day, in peace and in war, his dress is the same, one suit for every day usage and 

 one for festal occasions and for visits. 



THE MAN'S DRESS 



HATS AND HEADKERCHIEFS 



The hat worn on the Ihawan, upper Agiisan, and upper Simulau resembles that worn by 

 Mandayas. It is made out of two pieces of bamboo, 3 dried over the fire into the desired shape, and 

 is held together by two slender strips of rattan running around and stitched to the edges of the 

 headpiece proper. These pieces project backward and overlap to form the tail of the hat. 

 The upper surface of the whole hat is then painted with beeswax. The sustaining pieces of 

 rattan around the rim and the under surface of the back part receive a heavy coating of this 

 same material mixed with pot black. Odd tracings and dottings of beeswax and soot or of the 

 juice of a certain tree i serve to decorate the whole upper surface; small seed beads, usually 

 white, are often sewed around the rim in a single row and at slight intervals, or are sewed on the 

 top, especially around the conical peak. Little tufts of cotton are sometimes dotted over the 

 top, and occasionally one finds the emerald green wings of a beetle 5 placed in the seams on top. 

 All of these devices serve to enhance the beauty of the headpiece. 



A notable feature of the hat is five or six tail plumes of a domestic rooster. These are set 

 upright in small holes in the back part of the hat and are held in place by lumps of beeswax 

 placed at the ends of the quills, which protrude through the bamboo. It is needless to say that 

 the most gaudy plumes are selected for this purpose. They enhance in no small degree the ele- 

 gant appearance of the hat. These plumes curve very gracefully indeed, and nod in unison 

 with every movement of the wearer. 



The hat is held on the head by two strings made either of braided imported cotton of the 

 typical colors, of abalcd fiber of the same colors, of vegetable fiber, or of slender slips of rattan. 

 These two strings, often strung with beads, are attached at both ends of the hat and are suf- 

 ficiently loose to permit the head of the wearer to be inserted between them. A further adorn- 

 ment may consist of two or more beaded pendants that may be tipped with tassels of imported 

 cotton of the preferential colors. 



The hat, on the whole, is serviceable, economical, and cool, and serves to set off its wearer 

 to good advantage and to protect his hair from the rain. As far as I have been able to ascertain, 

 the decorative tracings and appanages on the hat have no other significance than that of per- 

 sonal adornment. 



1 Cam bojo. ' Ka-yu-ti. * Called dii-yau. 



