86 SCIENCE PROGRESS. 



out his notes on the effects of height, and let me have them 

 along with the pulse curves. I here insert these notes :— 



GENERAL NOTES BY W. M. CONWAY. 



Vomiting. — We had only two cases of this, both 

 Gurkhas ; one at Footstool Camp (about 17,000 feet), the 

 other on the Pioneer Peak, where Amar Sing had to stop 

 at 22,000 feet, on the "Water Col". The Gurkha ill at 

 Footstool Camp was a youth. The Gurkhas, for caste 

 reasons, had to eat their ordinary food everywhere. We 

 changed our feed as we went higher, and on the actual 

 ascent of big peaks only ate Kola biscuits after leaving 

 camp and before getting back to it again. I ascribe our 

 freedom from indigestion to this precaution. 



As to our general experiences I may note as follows : — 

 The effect of altitude came upon us all quite gradually, 

 and appeared to affect the native coolies (born and bred at 

 10,000 feet), as much as ourselves. There were slight 

 individual differences between us, but nothing at all marked. 

 The way altitude showed itself was by our diminished pace 

 when we thought we were going as fast as at lower levels. 

 Referring to our ascent from Asholey to Baltoro, then up 

 the Baltoro glacier to Junction Camp, Footstool Camp, 

 and so to the top of the Pioneer Peak (23,000 feet), 

 descending to Footstool Camp and then down the Baltoro 

 glacier again to Corner Camp, Baltoro and Asholey, I note 

 that we first became definitely conscious of discomfort 

 between Junction Camp (16,000 feet) and Footstool Camp 

 (17,000 feet) — a very gentle slope. I halted at Junction 

 Camp ; Bruce and Zurbriggen went on to Footstool Camp, 

 and it was there that the young Gurkha was sick and 

 generally upset. Bad weather came on, and Bruce and 

 Zurbriggen returned to Junction Camp and warned us that 

 we should feel the altitude a short way farther up. I 

 stayed four days at Junction Camp and then followed Bruce 

 and Zurbriggen to Footstool Camp. I ought to have been 

 habituated to altitude by then, but was not, and felt exactly 

 as Bruce and Zurbriggen had felt both times they passed 

 that way. This part of the glacier was a straight almost 



