162 Mr. J. G. Jeffreys on the Marine Testacea 



The Murex trunculus yields a rich purple dye, and being common 

 in the Mediterranean (although not known in higher latitudes), 

 is probably the kind which the ancients made use of for that 

 purpose, as well as for the table. The fish caught were grey 

 mullet and sand-eels, some of the latter weighing two or three 

 pounds. Supper was then prepared; and with the aid of a 

 brazier of charcoal, frying-pan, oil and salt, our fish were soon 

 cooked. A flask or two of native wine and some bread completed 

 the repast, and we returned to shore about midnight. 



I staid at Spezia three weeks, and had intended to return by 

 the *' Ferugio " steamer to Genoa, and try my luck again in deep 

 water; but a seat in a return-carriage having been offered me 

 by a vetturino, I gladly availed myself of it, and enjoyed the 

 journey across the Apennines and along the Riviera di Levante. 

 The route is beautiful and more varied than by the Cornice. My 

 only compagnon de voyage was a Lombardese gentleman. We 

 passed the night at Sestri di Levante, about halfway between 

 Spezia and Genoa ; and, while taking a stroll on the beach after 

 dinner, I was so charmed with the place as well as satisfied with 

 the prospect of its dredging capabilities, that I made a bargain 

 at the inn and with a boatman, and determined to return thither 

 from Genoa, where I expected to receive letters. To give some 

 idea of Italian conscience, I may mention that one boatman 

 asked me twenty francs per day for the use of his boat with 

 ropes and two men, which I afterwards got for five francs, being 

 the same rate as I paid at Spezia ! The inn (Hotel de PEurope) 

 was very superior to the one I lodged at in Spezia, and I was 

 '' tres-content '' with the accommodation during my subsequent 

 stay of ten days. I was, however, disappointed with the dredg- 

 ing ; for, although the water was deep, and the shells that were 

 thrown upon the beach gave great promise, the sea-bottom for 

 leagues, as far as Portofino to the west and the Golfo de la 

 Riva to the east, consisted of the same tenacious mud which I 

 found outside of the Gulf of Spezia, and contained scarcely any 

 other shell than the Turritella communis. I therefore again set 

 to work in washing sea-weeds and examining the sifted produce ; 

 and as the inn was a large one, and I was for several days the 

 only guest in it, I was enabled to work in comparative luxury by 

 changing my room when the sun came round, and using a vine- 

 clad balcony (having a circular marble table in the centre) which 

 faced the east and commanded a view of the Apennines. The 

 inn being built on the beach, I had thus the sea breeze, shade, 

 and lovely scenery on both sides. It is certainly the most pic- 

 turesque spot I ever visited. The fan-shaped Padinia Pavonia 

 displayed its iridescent hues in the rocky pools ; the tall aloe- 

 flower caused incessant surprise ; and the humble sand-convol- 



