i 



of Cumberland and Westmoreland, 301 



pletely enveloped in clouds, that it would have been rashness 

 to have proceeded ; and, though we were not inclined to be 

 frightened by little difficulties, we were not quite such fools 

 as to encounter certain destruction. After descending again 

 from the mountain fog, we made for a pretty cascade, at a 

 short distance from our inn, that was falling from rock to rock 

 in the most romantic manner. This waterfall, which feeds a 

 trout stream that empties itself into the lake, is completely 

 overhung with trees ; and, in scrambling from one promontory 

 of this rock to another, we got thoroughly drenched by the 

 thick foliage above us, which had condensed the vapour from 

 the mountains. The force of the water, which has doubtless 

 fallen for many centuries, has here and there formed natural 

 tanks in the rock ; and the clearness of the stream enabled us 

 to see that many of them were several yards deep. 



The whole village of Patterdale does not consist of more 

 than a dozen houses ; and, as it has no communication with 

 any market, its resources as to provisions are completely 

 within itself. In the winter it sometimes happens that the 

 only road by which there is access to this spot is for several 

 months rendered quite impassable by the drifted snow. Then 

 it is that Patterdale is a microcosm of itself; Ulswater supply- 

 ing the villagers with fish, and their little farms with more 

 substantial animal food ; whilst those who are not so well to do 

 subsist principally on aver cake and bacon ; but even in this 

 humble village of Patterdale you will find, in the neatly white- 

 washed inn of Mrs. Dobson, a pianoforte for the amusement 

 of her fair summer visitors, who, from the album in which 

 travellers enter their names, appear to be very numerous. 

 At the inn, also, is an old oaken chest, which, from its spacious 

 dimensions, and the work carved in relief upon it, brought 

 instantly to my mind the beautiful lines by Rogers on " Ge- 

 nevra." 



The King's Arms is very pleasantly situated, about a quarter 

 of a mile from the lake, which lies directly before it ; behind 

 and on each side of it are very high mountains. It is a 

 most comfortable inn; and here you may depend upon 

 meeting not only with the greatest civility, but with the most 

 comfortable and reasonable accommodation. 



We had eventually no occasion to regret our disappoint- 

 ment as regards Helvellyn, as it enabled us to reconnoitre the 

 more immediate vicinity of this truly delightful dale. The 

 chapel of St. Patrick, or village church, is situate between 

 the inn and the head of the lake, and forms a picturesque 

 object in the distance. In this churchyard the humble vil- 

 lagers of many generations have found a last resting-place, 



