OF THE QUITENIAN ANDES. 177 



at the foot of some precipice. Besides, only one sort of Cinchona 

 was known to exist in those forests, whereas by going a few days' 

 journey farther to the southward, to the forests below Alausi, in 

 the valley of the river Chanchan, I might expect to find three 

 sorts, and the road thither nowhere ascends above 12,000 feet. 

 So the latter plan was finally adopted, and on the 22nd of July I 

 sallied forth from the pleasant town of Ambato (8500 feet) along 

 the narrow " callejon" (lane) which separates the eastern from the 

 western branch of the Cordillera. My company comprised five 

 horses and mules, one mounted by myself, another by my servant, 

 and the remaining three laden with my baggage, consisting of 

 drying-paper, clothing and bedding, and a copious supply of tea, 

 coflfee, and sugar — articles rarely to be met with in a country where 

 there are no inns, and where the inhabitants with few exceptions 

 use no other beverage than aguardiente and sour chicha. An 

 arriero took charge of the beasts of burden. 



Our first day's stage to Riobamba was a long one, 12|^ Colum- 

 bian leagues (about 40 English miles). The first five leagues, 

 reaching to the village of Mocha, are along a very gradual ascent, 

 varied by a few shallow quebradas. The soil is what in Yorkshire 

 we used to call "a leight blaw-away sand," which, when the sun 

 and wind are up, scorches and blinds the traveller, though it pro- 

 duces scanty crops of maize, barley, peas and lupines (eaten here 

 under the name of "chocchos"). The indigenous vegetation is 

 limited to a few insignificant weeds, chiefly Composites, nestling 

 under the hedges of Yucca and Agave. The flowers of the two 

 latter plants — so great a rarity in England — are here to be seen 

 all the year round, and their tall tree-like peduncles are the poles 

 used throughout the Cordillera for all common purposes, such as 

 fences, rafters, and even walls of houses, &c. Long files of asses 

 laden with them enter the towns of Ambato and Eiobamba every 

 market-day. 



Beyond Mocha we leave the sandy country, and after passing 

 two streams which descend from Mount Carguairazo, on our right, 

 we begin to ascend to the Paramo de Sanancajas, the grassy meseta 

 which extends along the eastern base of Chimborazo, at a height 

 of from 11,000 to 12,000 feet. Near its commencement the road 

 leading from Quito to Gruayaquil branches off to the right, while 

 that to Biobamba and Cuenca continues straight on. The weather 

 had been rainy for many previous days, and we had had drizzling 

 rain all the way to Mocha, so that we were liot without apprehen- 

 sion of sLiftering from the cold on the paramo. Fortunately, just 



